Jewbilation!

June 19, 2014

Jewbilation!

So for those of you who still haven't heard the story...  The yearly WhiskeyFest traditionally lands on a Friday night.  This poses a big problem for our beast-loving brothers who happen to be religious Jews.  So a couple of enterprising young men, Joshua Hatton and Jason Johnstone-Yellin (who also run the malt society Single Cask Nation) produce an annual alternative on a Tuesday/Wednesday night called Whisky Jewbilee.  We found last year's to be a very nice combination of an intimate setting, good selection of vendors, and tasteful event planning, so we were excited to come back this year.  Here are some of the highlights.

Blend Baby Blend!

Blending Class with David Perkins of High West
Before the festivities commenced in the evening, there was a blending class taught by David Perkins of High West Distillery.  This was a very cool and unique opportunity to try your own hand at blending three different spirits into your own custom product.  The whiskies provided were a 12 year old "light whiskey" (light whiskey aka grain whiskey is 95% corn aged in refill barrels), an 8 year bourbon (75% corn mashbill) and a 6 year rye (95% rye).  Though we hadn't spent much time with light whiskey, David explained that almost all blended whiskies use this ingredient including most Canadian, American, and blended scotch whiskies.  After sampling all of them neat, the light whiskey was very strong, with a sweet jelly bean buttered popcorn thing going on.  The bourbon was sort of a medium body.  The rye was our favorite with a nice char and vanilla notes.  David was very high on the light whiskey and some of the class came up with pretty nice blends using predominantly light.  We ended up with our mix: 40 parts rye, 19 parts bourbon, 1 part light whiskey.  (Not really that much of a blend, but still we dug it).  But it was more the process than the final result and the lesson was that even tiny variations in ratios and ingredients can make a huge difference in the final product.  We left with a new appreciation for the finesse that folks like High West put into blending spirits.

Who are these badasses?
We caught up with David later on at his booth for some High West product.  The Midwinter Night's Dram is their new limited edition port barrel-finished rye whiskey.  It is AWESOME!  Very nice way to start the show indeed.  Here are the details:

"Blend of straight rye whiskeys, finished in port and French oak barrels.  Proof: 98.6 ͦ Mashbill: 6-year old straight rye whiskey: 95% rye and 5% barley malt. The 16-year old straight rye: 80% rye, 10% corn, 10% barley malt."

Midwinter Night's Dram
A lot of big rye warmth, with the maturity of the 16-year shining through and adding depth, but still some very bold spicy flavors.  And the sweetness of the port influence subtle... present but not overpowering.  Really a big surprise how much we dug this one.

New Brand Winner of the Night


Westland Single Malt Whiskey
We'd never heard of these guys before, but their product is definitely worth trying.  Our friend Ari Susskind dragged us over to the booth saying "you have to try this stuff, it's like fresh mint right off the farm."  They're definitely on to something here, it was a very unique flavor with a lot of character.

Un-Peated Malt of the Night

Glengoyne 21-Year
Glengoyne does this "HIghland distilled, Lowland matured" thing and we have to say that their 21-year was a beautiful example of a sweet and clean un-peated malt with a healthy sherry influence.  Lots of cola flavors and berries and sweet stone fruits and chocolates.  This is a "can't go wrong" gift for someone who loves Macallan or Glenlivet and wants to try something a little different.

Bourbon(s) of the Night
Elijah Craig 23 Year
Earlier this year at WhiskyLive, Heaven Hill stole the show in the bourbon category with a private barrel Elijah Craig 18-year and the "devil's proof" Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (66.6%).  Well this time again the Heaven Hill gang came out swinging for the fences with this 23-year Single Barrel and the new release of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof.  Though this show seemed to favor malts over bourbon, the EC23 still bested a pretty healthy lineup of other bourbons and we'd say it was the tastiest at the show.  And again, for price, you just can't beat the wildly good ECBP...

ECBP
Some folks have been saying that each successive dump of ECBP has been getting worse.  We think this is hooey, they're all very good with only very minor differences.  This newest fifth release at 134.8 proof is a killer bourbon, and absolutely can't be beat in the $50 price range (if you can find it!!).

Beast of the Night


In terms of a palate-crushing smoky beast winner, our friends at Bruichladdich came in super hot with Octomore 6.1.  Peated to a mind-altering 167 ppm, we could smell this tasting table from across the room.  The thing about Octomore is that it's not just a pure smoke bomb, it's really so awesome and drinkable at the same time!

Yo Joe!


Our buddy Joe Gratkowski was absolutely beaming about his new gig at Diageo.  Congrats Joe!  Look at that grin.  We'd be grinning too sitting behind all that beautiful Talisker.

Whisky of the Night!

Laphroaig drew us in with their blatant disregard for Manhattan fire regulations.  They were burning peat and blowing a cloud of peat smoke right there at the booth!  Man it smelled fantastic.  

Peat Smoke
But then the surprise of the night was when they reached into a green rubber boot and pulled out the new Laphroaig PX Cask and An Cuan Mor.

Laphroaig PX, An Cuan Mor


The An Cuan Mor, double matured first in American first-fill oak barrels and then in European oak is very clean and nice.  But as soon as we tasted the PX Cask, we knew this was our winner for the evening.  We've always been huge fans of peated PX malts, and this was no exception.  The sweet dark influence of the Pedro Ximenez sherry married up perfectly with the big phenol-rich smoldering campfire stones of the Laphroaig for a synergistic finish.  Unfortunately this bottle isn't available in the States yet, but look out once it's on the shelves for a real treat!

Another fantastic time all around at the Jewbilee.  Until next time.  /SmokyBeast

Battle of the Beasts Finale - The Baddest Beast in the Land!

June 16, 2014

Battle of the Beasts Finale - The Baddest Beast in the Land!



It All Comes Down...

To this!  We lined up four of the greatest beasts in the land, assembled our ninja drinking team, tasted them blind until our peat receptors were fried beyond belief, and here at long last are the results.  We are ready to officially declare the winner of Battle of the Beasts!



Ok so without further ado...









SmokyBeast Ninja Guest Judge #1

Benny Wolowitz





Tis' Which The Smokiest of the Beasts?

#1 - Octomore
#2 - Kilchoman
#3 - Supernova
#4 - Lagavulin

Choose Your Favorite Beast!

#1 - Octomore
#2 - Supernova
#3 - Lagavulin
#4 - Kilchoman

Aye, so Doctor Wolowitz truly is a lover of the smoke!  He picked out the highest ppm and declared it his favorite.  Octomore is truly a badass beast.  Crickey!




SmokyBeast Ninja Guest Judge #2

Bram Hoogendijk






Tis' Which The Smokiest of the Beasts?

#1 - Supernova
#2 - Kilchoman
#3 - Octomore
#4 - Lagavulin

Choose Your Favorite Beast!

#1 - Kilchoman
#2 - Lagavulin
#3 - Octomore
#4 - Supernova

And our first upset comes from the Dutchman!  Bram ranked the two smoke-bombs his least favorite, and found the Octomore less smoky than the Kilchoman.  Interesting how ppm doesn't always equate exactly to the sensation of smokiness.  And very interesting that the young upstart Kilchoman trumped the very sought-after Supernova!





SmokyBeast Ninja Guest Judge #3

Joshua Gershon Feldman






Tis' Which The Smokiest of the Beasts?

#1 - Octomore
#2 - Supernova
#3 - Kilchoman
#4 - Lagavulin

Choose Your Favorite Beast!

#1 - Kilchoman
#2 - Octomore
#3 - Supernova
#4 - Lagavulin

Aha!  Well Josh doesn't claim the title Director of SmokyBeast Special Operations for nothing.  He picks the ppm straight down the line.  But then, what's this???  Kilchoman strikes #1 favorite again!  Even from a veteran bog-sniffer like Josh, the rookie takes the gold!





Judge #4

Mrs. SmokyBeast






Tis' Which The Smokiest of the Beasts?

#1 - Supernova
#2 - Octomore
#3 - Kilchoman
#4 - Lagavulin

Choose Your Favorite Beast!

#1 - Supernova
#2 - Lagavulin
#3 - Octomore
#4 - Kilchoman

Let it be said that wifey has never sat down to a tasting and failed to pick the most expensive are rare whiskey as her favorite.  (Yes, it's the same with jewelry).  So it's no surprise that she sniffed out Supernova as the #1.  It's also no surprise that Lagavulin was #2, since Lag 16 was her first malt love!

And The Winner Is...

Tis' The Smokiest!!!

D'oh!  Who's idea was it to have four judges?  Bad hubby.  We have a tie.  Two votes for Octomore and two votes for Supernova as the smokiest beast in the land.  Who woulda thunk it???  Well sorry folks we'll just have to repeat the uber-scientific blind study next year.  For now, hubby's vote breaks the tie in favor of the Octomore.  In terms of pure smokiness, it's totally over the top.

The Smokiest of the Beasts!


Tis' The Tastiest of the Beasts!!!

Well the dark horse took the win with two votes!  It's not that surprising, we've been shouting from the rooftops how delicious Kilchoman is, particularly the cask strength sherry barrels (please guys, more single barrel sherry casks!!!).  But it is notable that two of our judges picked this very special Kilchoman barrel over the likes of Supernova, Lagavulin, and Octomore.  Perhaps being last in this competition was an advantage.  Once our palates were thoroughly destroyed by the monsters, this one came out with a delicacy that hit the palate like a blessing.  But it's not just the order, since we had enough in the ample pours of this tasting to go back through and compare each one head to head.  No the Kilchoman would be something special no matter where it sat in the lineup.

The Tastiest of the Beasts!!
Well that's all she wrote.  The Battle of the Beasts is done.  But we have a feeling that this may not be the final battle.  We'll save some of our legendary beasts and wait for another fire-breathing inspiration to strike.  Stay tuned!

Cheers/SB



Battle of the Beasts Part Four: Kilchoman Barrel Room

June 11, 2014

Battle of the Beasts Part Four: Kilchoman Barrel Room


The Final Contender

Battle of the Beasts continues with our final contender, Kilchoman Barrel Room Sherry Cask #3010.

Ok so Ardbeg and Bruichladdich made a lot of whiskey.  It's not really fair to compare their special release extra-peated bottles with Kilchoman's standard bottling.  While Kilchoman hasn't released a more heavily peated bottle, we were able to snag a cask strength single barrel from their "Barrel Room" selection which was available at Binny's in Chicago.  (hint - it was still available online as of yesterday...).

Now honestly maybe Kilchoman shouldn't be in this contest.  First of all, they probably wouldn't put themselves in the same category as smoke monsters like Supernova and Octomore.  When we did our interview with Kilchoman, James explained that they were going for a middle ground between the heavy smoke of the southern Islay distilleries (Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Ardbeg) and the lighter style of Bunnahabhain up north.  Well we'll be honest, we don't like Bunna nearly as much as we like Kilchoman.  Yes, they do pull off a huge amount of finesse with their malts.  But thank God they're still really smoky, and that's a great thing.

We decided to stick with this one because it's our favorite new scotch bar none, end of conversation.  And we wanted to see how some of our aficionados compared it to some of the famous Islays.  We feel like it holds up nicely in terms of smokiness and adds a wonderful flavor element, particularly with the sherry cask aging.  Anyway we hope we're not showing any disrespect by throwing this beautiful beast into this mix, but here goes!



SmokyBeast Tasting Notes

Nose:  We've always loved the mixture of sherry and peat, particularly the way the aroma mixes up grapes and smoke into a thick fruity chutney.  There's a new complexity here with some curry and deep candies: chocolate covered cherries and peanuts.

Palate:  Very sweet and soft on the palate.  More nuts, chocolate, and fruits.

Finish:  Long finish with good balance of heat, smoke, and sweets.  You can definitely sense (like with all Kilchomans) a few unique characteristics: quality of the spirit - you can tell it's not an old malt, but it has such a quality of the underlying spirit that it doesn't come off hot or young; freshness - there's like a grassy, farm fresh bouquet and taste to it that really speaks to the farm-to-table approach; and balance - equal parts smoke monster, subtle perfumy white chocolate, and rich malty sherry cask.


Guest Judge Comments

"Amber.  Nose: Herbal, peaty, grassy, farmy, musky!  Color says sherry.  Nose says 60%.  This one is great, my favorite!"

"Sherry nose, caramel, flowers, tastes like Octomore!"

"Nose- smoke blowing in your face while cooking on the beach (haulover beach is probably too specific).   Palate- malty, peaty and some nuttiness from a sherry finish.  Finish - intense but medium in length. Lots of char from the barrel comes through.  Notes- darkest in color. Also seemed the most familiar and expected. I'd guess Lagavullin"


Hey, look at that, just like we thought, our judges were fooled!  One thought it was Octomore, another Lagavulin, and it got the favorite of a third judge!  We're not surprised, this one holds up extremely well against older and more well-known Islays.  Wonder what would have happened if this wasn't a blind tasting???

So that's it for our contenders.  Tune in soon for the finale where we show all the judges rankings and declare the winner of Battle of the Beasts!
Battle of the Beasts Part 3: Bruichladdich Octomore 2.1

June 6, 2014

Battle of the Beasts Part 3: Bruichladdich Octomore 2.1


We're back with the third contender in our Battle of the Beasts showdown: Bruichladdich Octomore 2.1.  Octomore is the extra-peated line from Bruichladdich and includes the peatiest scotches ever known to man.  This second addition comes in at a whopping 140 parts per million peat level.  All of the Octomores to date have been five years old, until last year when they released a ten year variety.  The ten year comes in the $250-$300/bottle range so we haven't had the chance to try it yet.  (anyone out there want to pour us a glass?? wink wink).  One thing we can say definitively is that they have a totally badass looking bottle design...




SmokyBeast Tasting Notes

Nose:  Now that is some fire.  The Bruichladdich has an even higher ABV than the Supernova (62.5% this time instead of the Ardbeg's 60.1%).  It's half the age, only five years in the wood instead of nine or ten.  While the 'Nova was very mellow on the nose and you couldn't really feel the smoke until later, we can already tell that this is a different animal.  It's a wickedly peaty bouquet with rubber, blackcned rocks, phenols, spicy vegetals (like that hot pickled okra you can get down south in a jar), a little sultana / white wine stuff going on, and after it opens up for a few minutes some sweet lemon meringue action.

Palate:  The best phrase we can come up with, particularly since it's allergy season is "sinus-clearing".  Or for our friends up in Boston "Wicked Hawt".  It's actually very smooth on the tongue, with less body that the Ardbeg (in other words less thick and oily).  It slides across the tongue almost like a cognac or a smooth wine.  But it's only an illusion because then...

Finish:  Let's just say that this is a drink only a true beast master can love.  The first time we tried Octomore it came completely out of left field.  We were at a bar and just thought the name was interesting so we'd try it.  It was way over the top, like sandpaper on the throat.  Now that we're hardened peat monsters, we really do appreciate this stuff.  But even for us it's not an every day drinker.  Sometimes you're in the mood for a true monster, and this is it.

Guest Judge Comments:

"Nose Lingering smoke, faded richness, slowly some apple comes out. Palate- initially very sweet then becomes an outright charred up smoke bomb. Finish- long with a lot of ash like a slow burning campfire or bar-b-que being extinguished. Tannic and dry. Very resin-y, oily, pork grease."

"Apple wine, musty flavor. My second favorite so far."

"Grass, lemon juice, very peaty with distant petrol & sharp vegetal cardamom."


Stay tuned for the final contender: Kilchoman Barrel Room Single Cask, and then the finale, a judgement from our expert panel on the ultimate smoky beast!

/SB


Battle of the Beasts Part 2: Ardbeg Supernova

June 3, 2014

Battle of the Beasts Part 2: Ardbeg Supernova


Battle of the Beasts Continues

Last week we commenced an epic battle of our favorite beasties - big, smoky, powerhouses from Islay.  Today the contest continues with Contender #2: Ardbeg Supernova.


Supernova

A limited release that first hit the market in 2009, and then came back by popular demand in 2010, Ardbeg Supernova was a phenomenon.  It showcased young, bold whisky in a way that opened many peoples eyes.  To date, the common wisdom had been that "older is better" - everyone wanted a twenty-five or thirty year scotch and anything under twelve years was déclassé.  The youth and power of this nine-year peat monster from Ardbeg opened up a "new world" view of young Islay scotch and paved the way for innovators like Bruichladdich and Kilchoman to explore wide ranges of fresh young peaty masterpieces.

SmokyBeast Tasting Notes

Nose:  Wow, it's a really incredible nose on this guy.  The smoke is very present, but it's so well integrated into the aroma that it doesn't come off as acrid or overpowering.  The main gist here is bee's wax with little hints of paprika pepper, cashews, and white chocolate.

Palate:  Mid-body on this, just oily enough to coat the tongue.  The palate is half parts perfume and saddle leather.  The smoke starts to rise up just as you swallow.

Finish:  It's a triumph: one of the smokiest malts we've ever had, but absolutely no burn and perfectly balanced.  The spirit, smoke, and age just nestle up with each other into a fruity, chocolately, woody, and smoky dream.  Perhaps a new favorite.  All the beauty of the Lagavulin, but with more finesse, a richer palate, and a lot more balance.  Top marks.


John Hansell of WhiskyAdvocate describes it quite well:

"If you go into this experience expecting to be totally blown away by peat, tar and smoke, you might feel a bit under-challenged initially. But the peat eventually builds to a powerful, lava-like crescendo and you eventually realize that this is no ordinary Ardbeg. The length of the finish is seemingly endless, bold and warming."
Guest Judge Comments

"Bright, grassy, sugars.  Herring and putty.  Cask Strength for sure."
"Nose- more floral. Open & inviting with smoke in the background, a bit sweeter (with onions??);  Palate- sea salt, caramel, honey glaze;  Finish- quick. Burst of heat but fades very fast.  Opening up, the sweetness is amped up and the smoke is brought out."
"Rich smoke & peat, a 10 out of 10!"
"Rubbery, coarse, and young."

Stay tuned for Contenders 3 and 4: Bruichladdich Octomore and Kilchoman Sherry Cask.  And then the finale where we reveal the winner of the Battle of the Beasts!

/SB




Battle of the Beasts Part 1: Lagavulin 12-Year

May 30, 2014

Battle of the Beasts Part 1: Lagavulin 12-Year



Battle of the Beasts Part 1

Yesterday we kicked off our Battle of the Beasts showdown between our favorite big bad peaty malts.  For the next four days we'll be reviewing each of the selections, and then for the finale we'll show the votes of how they all stacked up on taste and smokiness.  

Contender #1: Lagavulin 12- Year



Tasting notes

Nose: Smoke floats right to the top.  It's a very fresh peat smoke, like taking pounds of the dark damp vegetal stuff and throwing it on smoldering campfire stones.  Once the peat has singed your nose and you've adjusted your internal peat-ometer accordingly, some of the other aromas start to come through.  cocoa beans, vanilla cream, sugared lemons, sea air, peanut butter, some medicinal / phenol angles on the peat, green grapes or apples, and some fresh green leaves (jade?).

Palate:  What a body on this one!  It's thick and oily and creamy.  Just absolutely lovely, waking up far corners of the taste buds with heavy cream, sweet lemon meringue pie, lots of spirit warmth, some old leather, wood, and nuts.

Finish:  Wow, what a magnificent beast.  The smoke comes right at the throat in the finish but it balances out against the high alcohol content wonderfully.  It then just rests right there under your soft palate smoldering for several minutes before turning into a little eau de cologne hovering on your breath.

We've really come full circle on this one.  We weren't prepared for it the first time, but now we're old friends and this is a definite favorite!


Guest Judge Comments

"Pale citrus, rich peat, lemon, creamy.  Kilchoman?"
"Vanilla, ginger, smoke."
"Nose: Vegetal, grilled peppers and zucchini, agave. Reminds me of a reposado tequila or mezcal.  Palate- viscous, lots of heat, peppery spice, intense.  Finish - intense up front, lots of mint then smoke developed as it wound down.  Honestly with the nose, body and flavor if no one told me what it was I'd think I'd have a really interesting & solid tequila."

-- We gave it another sniff and it definitely does have that agave / tequila thing going on.  Would never have thought of that but it's true!
Battle of the Beasts!!!

May 29, 2014

Battle of the Beasts!!!


Day of Reckoning!

Ever since we started SmokyBeast, we knew that one day it would come to this.  It's been a long time in the making, but the day is finally here.  We're going to line up our favorite smoky beasts: the peatiest, smokiest, and most delicious drams we've ever had, and put them up blind for the ultimate battle of the beasts.  Mano a mano.  Six-shooters at high noon.  We're going to find out once and for all which is the baddest beast in the land.

Contenders


In the middle, two of the smokiest malts ever produced: Ardbeg Supernova and Bruichladdich Octomore!  And for the bookends, two of our favorite big smoky beauties: Lagavulin 12-Year Cask Strength, and Kilchoman Cask Strength Sherry Cask.

Lagavulin:  Limited Edition 12 Year Natural Cask Strength, Distilled in 2001, Bottled in 2013, 55.1%
Lagavulin is our first and still favorite malt.  The 12-year is a mighty beast.  It was one of the early malts that we reviewed on this blog and honestly it was too much for us the first time around.  Since then it's become well-loved here at Beast Headquarters.  Though the peat levels are supposed to be less than half (perhaps a third) of some of the other beasts in the lineup, it wouldn't be a proper Islay battle without a Lag in the mix!

Ardbeg: Supernova SN2010 60.1%
Peated to "over 100 parts per million," Ardbeg Supernova is one of the mythical beasts of Islay.  It was first released in 2009 and sold out in a matter of days.  The 2010 release was even more sought-after and is highly coveted by smoke heads worldwide.  This is known to be one of the all-time smokiest beasts in the land and certainly earns a spot in our battle.

Bruichladdich: Octomore 2.1 62.5%
Being the smokiest scotch ever created, Octomore is the highest handicap in our smoke race.  Yes, the Octomore 5.1 is technically the peatiest monster ever at 169ppm.  We'll have to track down a bottle one day.  For now, the 2.1 is still some vicious hell-raising, slap-your-ass-and-call-you-Sally hooch at 140ppm.  Beaming down from its badass black bottle, this is one serious beast!

Kilchoman: 2007 Sherry Cask 3010 Barrel Room Option for Fountainhead
We thought about putting the obvious choice - a young Laphroaig - into the mix here, but instead we went with our newest favorite, the single sherry cask from Kilchoman.  Since this is a blind tasting, we thought we'd throw in a wild card for our judges.  As the lowest peat-level in the bunch, and the only sherry cask, it will be interesting to see the balance of picks for taste and smokiness.


The Judges

Mrs. Smoky Beast
Since Mr. Beast nobly sacrificed his seat in the name of science, Mrs. Beast is representing the blog in the blind tasting.  A true peat-head to the core, this wifey is ready for battle.

Guest Judge #1: Benny Wolowitz
Born and raised in Miami, with a brief exile into the smokey mountains, Ben is a happily married, overly read, usually bearded booze geek who went from the book biz to indulging a preference for whiskey of all sorts by selling liquor for a very large wine and spirits retailer.

Guest Judge #2: Joshua Gershon-Feldman
Known by his many aliases: Dr. Pre-Pro, Captain Coop, The Sherpas' Sherpa, SmokyBeast Director of Security, Joshua has poured over many many drams in his review for Coopered Tot and is a true beast-lover.

Guest Judge #3: Bram Hoogendijk
"Our man in Amsterdam," the official Managing Editor of the SmokyBeast Northern European Desk, malt whiskey aficionado extraordinaire, Bram flew all the way from Holland to partake in our ultimate battle of the beasts!

Format

A fiercely scientific tredecuple blind tasting. Four glasses, four drams.

The Tasting (obviously the bottles were concealed until the end...)

The Tasting Sheet



Tune in tomorrow as the games begin!!!


Review: High West 21-Year Rye - Rocky Mountain Smooth

May 22, 2014

Review: High West 21-Year Rye - Rocky Mountain Smooth

When a Rye Is Not a Rye...

As we've talked about before, there are some very specific regulations for what constitutes straight rye whiskey.  One of those regulations is that it must be aged in new charred oak barrels.  Since their 21-year is aged in used oak barrels, High West is very careful not to call it a rye.  Instead it's labelled "whiskey distilled from rye mash" with the subtitle "stored 21 years in reused cooperage".  Interesting... 

Origins

According to their website, High West was started in 2004.  This means that if this whiskey was aged the whole 21 years in reused cooperage, then it wasn't High West's decision to barrel it this way.  More likely this whiskey was never intended to be sold as a rye.  It was probably destined for a blend, which explains why the standards for straight rye weren't observed.  This doesn't take anything away from the whiskey.  Many great single barrels were rescued from distilleries that predominantly produced whiskey for blends.  Nonetheless it's interesting.  We know that High West has sourced whiskey from Four Roses, LDI, and Barton.  It's unlikely that they could have obtained a barrel of 53% rye from Four Roses, and it seems more likely that they could find a barrel this old from Barton than LDI, so that's our guess.  Barton produced a wide range of blended American and Canadian whiskeys, so that makes sense with this story as well.  




Tasting Notes

Nose:  We wouldn't blink if you told us this was a highland malt.  It's got a lot of that furniture polish scent that speaks to an old unpeated scotch.  Perhaps that's the cooperage since it's aged in used oak barrels rather than new charred oak.  It's lacking all the big rich vanilla, molasses, and spice that we think of in a classic American rye.  There's some sweetness, maybe a little peach and white chocolate, some mint, and a lot of perfumy, musky stuff going on.

Palate:  Well at least we can tell it's a rye in the taste, certainly not a malt.  The spice and the cracking wheat come into play.  There's some chiles, a nice mellow corn, medium body, and some nutmeg.

Finish:  It's smooth as hell, which it should be at 46% and 21-years old.  The finish is brief, well balanced but unremarkable.

Review:  Considering how hard this bottle is to find, we were hoping for something really over the top special.  This one is smooth, that's for sure.  There's nothing *wrong* with it.  But it just doesn't really float our boat.  Compared to other epic ryes like Rittenhouse 21, Willett 25, or the old bottles of Michter's 10-Year, this just doesn't have a lot of flavor.  It's not a beast, that's for sure.  Maybe it's predisposition, but it almost drinks like a blended whiskey.  Very smooth, nice balance, but not the kind of big flavor bomb that we've come to know and love from our favorite ryes.  It's hard to tell if it's the low proof or the used barrels or just the original source, but there's something missing here.

Since this is certainly 'a hunter', you might well want to pick one up if you find one in the wild, but we honestly we wouldn't hunt too hard for it.

A Crazy Frankenstein Remix...

Ok, so High West 21 had grace and finesse, but something of a lack of balls.  If you are a devoted SmokyBeast reader, you may remember a fairly recent review where we found a whiskey with too much kick, maybe just a little heavy in the balls department.  Ok so we came up with a crazy idea.


Right, so two of our not-so-favorite whiskies.  Stagg Jr, which we really just didn't enjoy at all - freakishly hot, burny, like magic markers on crack.  And High West 21 - which for the record we have WAY more respect for than Stagg Jr. - it's a delicate and sublime lady, just not quite the flavor bomb we look for in a rye.  Could it be...  put together...  synergy?

Frankenstein Vatting Tasting Notes

Nose:  You know what?  The FrankenVat has vanilla, molasses, dark oak aromas are back!  We didn't love the Stagg Jr. nose, but combined with the super-mellow High West, this has a really awesome big sweet nose that also has those elements of age.  Not bad so far...

Palate:  Well... um...  this is pretty much the good stuff.  Ok granted at this point we've had a couple of glasses of the straight 21 year, as well as little belt of the Stagg Jr straight to jog the memory (after 6 months it still wasn't *good* but it was a lot more drinkable than at first sip), so we're not exactly pristine in the palate / taste memory category, but still this is good stuff.  It's got the sweets - cocoa, vanilla, baking goods; and the warmth - old leather, wood, furniture polish.  It's sort of got it all.

Finish:  And it's got a mile long awesome warm finish.  No doubt due to the rocket fuel that is Stagg Jr, but still retaining a bit of the class of the HW 21.

A little bit of mad science pays off sometimes!  Cheers/SB
Creative Whisky Company 2014 Exclusive Malts - A Cask Strength Tasting

May 15, 2014

Creative Whisky Company 2014 Exclusive Malts - A Cask Strength Tasting

Creative Whisky Company is an interesting outfit.  It's headed up by David Stirk, who spend two decades covering malts for Whisky Magazine and writing his own whisky guidebooks.  In 2005 David decided to open his own bottling company and began selecting casks for aging and retail.

The Exclusive Malts are hand selected by David, aged in a single cask, and bottled at cask strength, with no artificial color.  So far, so good.  We're listening.  It also helps that several bottles in the lineup are over twenty years old!  Ok on to the whiskies, let's see what Dave's serving up this year...

Exclusive Malts Bladnoch 1992 21 Year (96.2 proof)

Nose: Perfumy nose of rich florals: lilies and lilacs - and ripe stone fruits: over-sweet apricots & nectarines.  It all combines for a fancy spray-bottle of Chanel #5.

Palate:  A lot of white wine characteristics in this malt - green grapes and honey, some little notes of rock salt / sea salt, wedding cake, and peanuts.

Finish:  Very balanced.  Absolutely no alcohol burn.  Not a ton of balls on this one, but that seems to be the idea.  This would be a perfect introductory scotch for a white wine drinker.  It's incredibly smooth without being too sweet and still retaining a nice flavor profile.  It would go fantastically with a light seafood dinner, or some light fruity desserts.  Very nice dram.

Exclusive Malts Glencadam 1991 22 Year (100.2 proof)




Nose:  This one's a really nice heavy white oak on the nose.  Then we get a little silly putty / aloe flavor, a hint of leather polish, and it winds up on a hefty dose of high test apple cider.

Palate:  The tongue moves in a direction more towards spice with some cloves, nutmeg, and pink peppercorns.  The palate honestly does not have the tenacity of the nose, but on the other hand it's a very very drinkable scotch at a hundred proof.

Finish:  The finish is very creamy with maybe some little hints of strawberries or other seedy fruits.  Again there's absolutely no burn here, which is very nice at over a hundred proof.  This is definitely a dangerous dram, much smoother than any blend, but deceivingly higher test.  Another light, floral, dessert-y dram that would go perfectly with chocolate moose or strawberries and cream.

Exclusive Malts Linkwood 1999 14 Year (111.6 proof)




Nose: We're back in the highly perfumy, apple cider, eau de cologne neighborhood here with some grassy / farmy elements as well.

Palate:  Mmm, but in this case (opposite from the Glencadam) the tongue comes out with a lot more punch than the nose.  There's a hint of smoke, some rich roasted nuts, some sea air, a little more chewiness/body, and some definite spice with a little prick of habanero or cayenne.

Finish:  A nice long finish here with a little welcome spirit warmth.  Smoke comes to the front (not peaty but a smoldering oceanside fire).  There's some melting sugar about to turn into caramel, and maybe some burned butter, like those mexican charred corn on the cobs you get at street fairs.  Very very nice finish long in the sweet balanced delicately with smoke and wood.

This is our favorite so far.  A nice rich malt with a little smoke, nice body, not shying away from the taste of the spirit, but still wickedly smooth up at over 110 proof!  Pick this one up if you see it for sure!

Exclusive Malts "North Highland" 1996 17 Year (112.2 proof)




Nose:  The first dose of sherry so far, with the color to back it up.  However this nose is sharp and has a little of that magic marker / white out quality to it.  Not our favorite so far in terms of the smell.

Adding water:  This one begs for water, and takes it well.  The nose opens up and turns into a very nutty, nougat, goodness - chocolate covered cherries!

Palate:  It's rich, it's got some red grapes, and some whipped cream, and some little pangs of spice.

Finish:  Medium finish with more red fruits, sweet grapes, and sherried oak.  It's just not our favorite.  We love sherry against peat, but without the peat it just seems to magnify the tang of the alcohol instead of balancing it out.  Probably should have tasted this one before the Linkwood, because once we got a taste of smoke it was tough.  There's nothing technically wrong with this.  It's a nice big cask strength highland malt, and if that's your cup of tea, you're not going to find a lot of seventeen year old cask strength malts these days, so go for it.

Exclusive Malts Bowmore 2001 12 Year (116.8 proof)





Nose:  Ok, our first Islay and coming in at a whopping 116.8 proof!  We're excited.  The nose comes in peaty, but not blow-your-mind peaty.  It's a Bowmore after all and is still reserved next to it's neighbors from the south: Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig.  It's got the peat, and some sherry in the nose.  There's a little rubberiness, we're sort of ambivalent on the nose here.  Let's take a sip.

Palate:  Ok now we're sold.  It's a solid peat and sherry balance, with some nice sea brine, healthy salt, a very nice smoke, and good spirit flavor.  Awesome smoothness and balance at this monster proof.  It merits only a drop of water and with this infusion turns into a gem, very drinkable without losing flavor.  Peat floating on top of grapes, wood, and leather.

Finish:  A proper long finish typical of an Islay, and a cask strength one at that.  This one is like Lagavulin 12-year, but with a lot more finesse, less smoke, and more drinkability.  Both are killer, and we will always love the Lag, but many may find this bottle preferable.  A beast that can be enjoyed by all, not just die-hard smoke hunters.

Conclusions

This is a really nice line and will generally be a happy pickup as well as a pretty good collectors' item given the small production run.  The Bladnoch and Glencadam are very refined ladies that will be well-loved by folks who tend towards Tullibardine, Scapa, and Balblair.  For us, the Linkwood and the Bowmore were the winners.  Lovely smoke, cask strength goodness, great balance, wonderful cask selection, and a good pure non-colored malt.  Good job by David and Creative Whiskey.  A fun tasting.  Keep putting out these nice selections of cask strength whisky!

Cheers/SB







Pilgrimage to Bourbon Country Part 3: The Bourbon & Bonsai Tasting with Doug Phillips

May 6, 2014

Pilgrimage to Bourbon Country Part 3: The Bourbon & Bonsai Tasting with Doug Phillips

Well if you've read the blog over the past couple of weeks, you know that our tour of bourbon country in Kentucky was off to a pretty phenomenal start.  We'd visited Four Roses to see where all of Jim Rutledge's magic happens.  Then we got a private tour of Willett Distillery by Master Distiller Drew Kulsveen, who drilled into some barrels of their new bourbon and rye for us to taste the first original Willett-produced whiskey since the 1970's!  

It was shaping up to be a great day.  But as the sun started to fade, our journey through the whiskey motherland was just heating up.  As we mentioned last week, in recent history Willett has been known as one of the top NDPs - non-distiller producers.  Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (KBD) would purchase stocks of whiskey from many different distilleries, age them, and then release them at their peak.  Willett released whiskey directly to distributors and retailers, but they also had a very famous private barrel program.  

Liquor stores and bars could visit the troves of barrels in Willett's rickhouses and choose one to feature as their own private barrel.  Picking barrels of Willett became something of an art form, and some of the most sought after ryes in the world came out of this program.  The Seelbach Hotel in Louisville chose the now infamous Rathskeller Rye.  LeNell's liquor store in Brooklyn released Red Hook Rye which is now one of the most collectible American whiskies. Joe Reilly from Ace Liquors in Washington D.C. brought forth the mythical "Iron Fist" and "Velvet Glove" Willetts.  

Another legend of barrel picking is Doug Phillips.  Doug's Willett picks are the types of bottles that whiskey collectors drool over and feature as the crown jewels in their display shelves.  We had asked Doug if he'd like to chat with us about whiskey.  He agreed, but only on the condition that we visit his home, sit out on the deck, and dram together.  It was tough, but eventually he convinced us to say yes.  Doug lives not too far from Willett and has a beautiful place out in the country.  We rolled in just before dusk and started with a tour of the property (a whiskey-in-hand tour of course!).   

Doug's Pond
Lumber shed
Outhouse (we just really liked this photo...)

Doug is a fascinating guy.  He is a glazier, glass sandblaster and contractor by trade and actually helped to build the new Willett distillery.  He's also into bonsai trees...


Bonsai!!!
 Here's Doug at his dock appropriately enjoying an old Willett.

Doug
A curious eye and the right questions revealed some very interesting little facts.  Like these seemingly insignificant piles of bricks were actually salvaged from the old Heaven Hill Distillery which burned down in 1996.  That's the same distillery where many of those historic Willett's originated.

Fire-Surviving Heaven Hill Bricks
 We sat out on the deck and Doug started chopping wood for the barbecue.  "You need a lot of different kinds of wood for a good cooking fire," Doug says as he splits logs of cherry, hickory, white oak, maple and walnut. The neighbor's German shepherd comes sniffing around when he smells the fire start.  We're drinking old rye and Sierra Nevada Torpedo and eating chicken livers hot off the grill as an appetizer.  After a long day driving and walking around it doesn't get much better.  Until after dinner that is...

Some of Doug's picks

The bbq chicken and fresh cole slaw were outstanding, and it was time to get into some whiskey.  Doug pulls out a few of his favorite Willetts.  The 800 series bourbon barrels are wildly popular and we were lucky enough to try three of them.





They're brothers, all sharing a big vanilla, toffee, and spice flavor profile though each one has its own little distinctive characteristics.  These are amazing whiskies: big, cask strength, rich and ballsy bourbons.

"I came down to Kentucky to buy a barrel, but no one was interested in selling me one the way I wanted it." Doug explains, "Then I talked to Drew [Kulsveen] and said 'Hey if I wanted a barrel done at cask strength with no chill-filtering, would you do that?'  He just looked at me and said 'Ah... yeah, of course!'"  

We went through a bunch of other great whiskies and we're not going to try to list all of them.  Suffice it to say that Doug picks great barrels.  Smooth Ambler is one of his current favorites.  But then as we made our way through the cabinet, he pulled out something extra special.


"Dug'z" 17-Year Bourbon


The 17 year "Dug'z & Willy'z" Willett is the most unforgettable of the night.  It's a classic big boy on the nose, lots of baking spice and cocoa.  It's a nice oily thickness on the palate with lots of wood and some of that old leather we look for in a nice mature whiskey.  But the finish is what makes it so incredibly distinctive.  Right at the end there's a...  funk.  There's no other way to describe it.  It's a skunky funky herbal finish that floats right out on top of the tongue.  Very enjoyable and so unique that there's no doubt we could pick this one out blind among a dozen other beasts without any trouble at all.

The night moves on and we taste a lot of whiskey.  There was an awesome 9 year old bourbon from the now closed Deatsville Distillery.  We drank some things that weren't even in official bottles, real private stash type stuff. There's a rye that Doug has finished in barrels that previously held peated single malt whiskey.  Really wacky in a good way...  We start talking about single malts.  Doug, like ourselves, discovered great whiskey through scotch before he developed a taste for bourbon and rye.  We let on that our favorites are Lagavulin and Talisker.  With a glimmer in his eye, Doug makes a b-line to the malt cabinet and withdraws two incredible gems to top off the evening.

"You can't be a Lagavulin fan and not try the White Horse," Doug says.  Indeed, we've been wanting to taste one of the Lagavulin White Horse bottles for ages.


The White Horse Lagavulin is absolutely stunning.  Despite it being bottled in the early 90's, it tastes fresher than the Lag 16 they're putting out today.  The smoke is really tight and refined and layered in with the warmth and wood and slight sherry notes.  It's a subtle difference but very noticeable.  Really nice stuff.  

Doug's got one final trick up his sleeve when it is revealed that Hubby loves Talisker and was born in 1975.  Care to guess?  Yup a 1975 Talisker.  One of the original 25-Year Limited Edition bottles.  It's sealed, but Doug insists that we crack it and drink it to the shoulder before calling it a night.






The Tali is a complete gem.  We reviewed one of the current release Tali 25 year bottles early on in the blog.  It was good stuff, no doubt.  But nowadays they have dropped the proof down considerably.  Back then it was cask strength - 59.9% in this case.  The extra proof makes it a 'no contest' against the current release.  It's extremely smooth and drinkable for the proof with all that wonderful Talisker ocean brine and sea air, smoldering smoky rocks, huge peat, and just an incredible balance.  Absolutely everything you want in a Talisker.  

Doug was a phenomenal host and shared a tremendous amount of whiskey knowledge, not to mention a top-notch tasting!  If you're lucky enough to try one of Doug's barrel picks, you'll be in for a treat.  And spending an evening watching the light fade over bbq, beer, and whiskey was the perfect way to end an unbelievable day in Kentucky.  

Until next time.  /SmokyBeast