Port Ellen

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The Best Malt We've Ever Tasted

December 29, 2015

The Best Malt We've Ever Tasted

We're just going to say it.  This is the best single malt we've ever had.  Over the years of drinking fine whisky we've developed our taste.  And since you are a reader of the blog, you know what that taste is: huge, smoky, rich whiskies. The type of stuff where the first sip stays with you all night and you wake up dreaming about it the next morning. That mystic combination of smoldering wet campfire rocks and salty sea air, the aromas of massive peat fires roasting barley and then taking their sweet time to age over a couple decades in a beautiful piece of oak. 

Now we're not talking about the smoke monsters here. Those are cool in their own right in a slap-your-ass-and-call-you-Sally kind of way. But the real winners, the true life-changing malts, are the ones that are big and smoky, yet so smooth they go down like silk. And personally, we think that 100% sherry cask Islay malt is the ultimate combination. The sweet raisin syrup that comes off these ex-sherry barrels, when it's done right, mixes in perfectly with the big smoke of a heavily peated malt to give you the most brilliant combination of flavor and smoothness. 




Apologies in advance, you're likely not going to find this bottle. It was a 2004 release of only 302 bottles that we found a few years ago. We paid what we thought was a little too much for it at the time. Now we'd probably scoop up a couple more at that price in a heartbeat. Truth is we took one look at the COLOR on this bottle and had to have it (and of course the gents at Douglas Laing would never commit the travesty of adding caramel coloring to this unicorn of a whisky, it says so right on the bottle). Just look at how friggin' dark this bad momma is!!!

Ladies and gentlemen, drum roll please, the best single malt we've ever tasted: 

Port Ellen 1982 Old Malt Cask
Douglas Laing  21-Year
Sherry Cask # 670



Tasting Notes

Nose: It comes at you straight out as if you took a big bag of raisins and plums and threw them into the coals of a beachfront bonfire. At first all you can smell is the deep phenolic, slightly antiseptic, "crawl-right-up-to-the-back-of-your-nose" peat. It's not acrid, doesn't singe the nose-hairs. It's just there, all-encompassing, a wave of old world beauty wrapped up into a single sniff. Just behind the smoke comes the amazingly complex fruits. Plums and prunes, grapes, and raisins, apricots, and orange zest. Do you hate when whisky reviewers use terms like "tyre rubber"? So do we, but it's there, and it's undeniable, and it's so so beautiful. 

Palate: On the tongue it's so rich, just glazing your mouth with sweet oils. The palate is all honey, molasses, and stewed peaches. And then as you hold it in your mouth, almost crying because you know you eventually have to swallow it and that sip will be gone forever, you discover the wood. Twenty-one years of oak that's so expertly hidden in the luscious layers of this malt, yet unmistakable.  

Nose: We had to nose it again before we get to the finish. Sorry, but so would you. Ever read a whisky review that used the term "band-aids"? And you're like "why on earth would I ever want to drink a band-aid??"  THIS IS WHY.  Seriously smell this and try not to conjure up bandages. It's impossible. And the strange thing is that it's like the best smell you've ever experienced in your life. You're just sticking your nose deeper and deeper into the glass, closing your eyes, grinning, raising your eyebrows, making little cooing sounds, and generally looking like a monstrous idiot. But you can't help it. There's so much going on here you want to keep smelling it all night.

Finish: Oh the smoke comes back like a long-lost lover after that super smooth and sweet palate. If you could roll up a box of cherry-flavored Luden's cough drops and smoke them like a big fat doobie, this is pretty much where you'd end up. It's so smooth you could drink a water glass of this stuff at breakfast, but so rich that one little sip ruins you for all other whisky forever. All the elements wrap themselves up together for the most integrated, balanced dram we've ever encountered. Fruity, sweet, super smoky, woody, never bitter, impossible to separate all the layers as they float off together in the finish. The 100 proof is just magic here, keeping the full flavor of the spirit but just so incredibly drinkable  (though wouldn't it have been cool to see how dark this lady was at cask strength??).  




 Conclusion

You know sometimes with these super exclusive (& nowadays ludicrously expensive) bottles, you can spend a lot of money and be very disappointed. We've been there. And sometimes you feel like people think they have to like them because of the brand or the label or the age or the price tag or whatever. But when you bump into a beauty like this, you remember what this whole whisky thing is all about. Just a superb malt that knocks it out of the park from the moment you open the bottle. The kind of stuff you could pick out blind from a dozen other drams without even having to work at it. A gorgeous end to an incredible year, this one is perfection. There's just no other word for it.

Finally, we just wanted to wish everyone a wonderful new year and to thank all the amazing folks who have reached out, supported the blog, shared their stories, whiskies, and time with us over the last year. Even something as simple leaving a comment on the blog, taking a second to hit "like" on Facebook or "follow" on twitter, these things really mean a lot to us. By far the greatest part for us in writing SmokyBeast is the people we've met along the way who have been incredibly generous, warm, and have welcomed us into their lives. We're far from the whisky experts many of these folks are, but their knowledge and friendship have taught us so much. There's nothing better than sharing a delicious dram with folks who appreciate great whisky and we hope to do so with even more of you next year.

Cheers and happy holidays!  /Mr. & Mrs. Beast

Review: Port Ellen 18 Year McGibbons "Winter Distillation" - A home run just in time for the World Series

October 22, 2014

Review: Port Ellen 18 Year McGibbons "Winter Distillation" - A home run just in time for the World Series

Two Things That Don't Suck

Two things that don't suck:  Douglas McGibbon's Provenance, and Port Ellen.  Provenance is a line of independent single malt bottlings.  In other words, the geniuses at Douglas McGibbon & Company hand pick casks of scotch (and these dudes have one of the best barrel collections in the world), age them in their vast warehouses, and release them just at the right time.  If you love a particular distillery and Provenance offers a single cask release, you should buy it.  You can bet it won't suck.



Another thing that rarely sucks is Port Ellen.  If you're a loyal reader, you know that PE is like the holy grail for peat heads.  It was one of the most prized distilleries in Islay until it was closed down in 1983.  They made some magic there with a massive peaty whiskey that was so smooth it makes a baby's butt feel like sandpaper.  We're faithful that Lagavulin 16 Year is the best scotch you can buy on the shelf today, but this stuff is like Lagavulin's elder statesman, older brother, or cool uncle.  It's the shit.



Needless To Say...

Needless to say when we saw two favorite things come together in this McGibbon's Provenance bottling of Port Ellen 1982, we were pretty pumped up.  We'd never had a Port Ellen this YOUNG. Since it's been thirty-one years since the distillery closed, you usually see older bottlings these days at twenty-five years and up.  With these peaty Islay scotches, sometimes younger is better because the glorious fiery smoke tends to fade with age.  At a barely legal eighteen years old, would this young beast show some of that coveted fire?  On top of that, take one look at the color and you know that it's got to be a sherry cask.  Sherry-cask, peated Islay scotch is our all time favorite type of malt. So on paper all the ingredients pointed to this being a hell of a dram. This bottle is dubbed the "Winter Distillation" and it was distilled and bottled in the winter months.  Does that make any difference?  We have no idea.  But it sounds really cool.


Tasting Notes

Nose:  It's like campfire stones bubbling with melted marshmallows, sticky candy orange slices, tree bark, and spicy lemongrass.  Pink rock salt, a little salty ocean brine, more sweet: honey, molasses, bitter cherries, pears, and rose water.

Palate:  The balance is just amazing.  With sherry and sweetness and nice round edges, but adding an amazing layer of smoke and warmth underneath.  It's got that "Ragout Factor" as in "It's In There!"  Everything you're looking for: the old leather, the pipe tobacco, the sweet sticky raisins and plums, the big big smoke, the amazing spirit warmth.  It's got it all.

Finish:  Wonderful mid-length finish where the smoke, chocolates, and fruits just meld together in the mouth and float on top of a nice spirit warmth with absolutely zero alcohol burn whatsoever.  The flavors linger until you're left with a little beautiful pipe smoke, sweet citrus fruits, and warm oak.

Review

We've gotten away from the grades lately, but holy crap this one is an "A+".  It's a "desert island" dram without a doubt, just a total gem.  We're going to have to savor this bottle for as long as we can before letting that last drop go.  Because of course we weren't smart enough to buy two...

Cheers/SB
The Beast Masters Club

August 5, 2014

The Beast Masters Club

Eleven men with a mission: To drink our way through the world's best whiskey.  I could tell you where and when, but then I'd have to kill you.  But I can let slip a few of the gory details.  (And don't worry, Mrs. Beast has her own secret club going on for the ladies, more about that later...)


The Beast Masters




Professor Rickhouse
Hometown: Greenwich, CT
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Michter's 10yr









Haggis MacTavish
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Lagavulin 16







Seamus O'Schwartz
Hometown: Lawrence, NY
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Black Maple Hill 16 Year








El Diablo
Hometown: Thorpe Bay, UK
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Lagavulin 21 Year









T-Bone
Hometown: New Orleans, LA
Poison of Choice: Rye
Favorite open bottle: Bulleit







The Matador
Hometown: Washington, D.C.
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Macallan 12 Year





The Highway Man
Hometown: Middlebury, VT
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Woodford Reserve








Captain Sour Mash
Hometown: Atlantic Beach, NY
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: William Larue Weller









Neaty Peaty
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Ardbeg








Jew Done Drank Ma Whiskey
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year










Mr. S. Beast
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Rye
Favorite open bottle: Willett 24 Year




Some Background

We've gotten a lot of requests to break down some fundamentals, so before we get started on the insanity, here is some background.

Rule 1: It's all whiskey. 
Bourbon is whiskey.  Scotch is whisky (minus the "e").  Rye is whiskey.  It's all whiskey.   


Rule 2: Scotch is scotch.  
Scotch is whiskey from Scotland.  Single malt scotch is the product of one specific distillery.  Scotch is 100% malted barley (aka malt whisky). "Peated" scotch uses the traditional method of drying malted barley with peat fires which gives the liquor its smoky flavor.  Islay (pronounced "EYE-luh")is an Island west of mainland Scotland that is famous for using original production methods and producing delicious smoky whisky.



For our inaugural episode, we thought we'd go straight to the essence of whiskey: Islay.  Not taking anything away from American whiskey, but Islay is the motherland.  Barley dried with peat - the literal rot of thousands of years of Scotland flavoring the same hooch that's been made for centuries.  Old smoke, brown water, the real stuff.  We'll get to bourbon and rye (perhaps our current favorites on the shelf) but lets start at the beginning.  

Independent Bottlers

There are two ways to buy whiskey: Official Bottlings (OB's) are distilled and bottled directly by the distillery.  Independent bottlers are third-party companies that buy whiskey in bulk from the distilleries, and then age and bottle it themselves.  We decided to start with independent bottlers, because you can often find older vintages at a better price.  We ended up with three legendary brands: Gordon MacPhail, Sestante, and Signatory Vintage.

The Line Up







1982 Port Ellen 25 Year
Gordon & MacPhail






We've reviewed Port Ellen on SmokyBeast before, and sufficed to say it's Islay's most sought-after and impossible distillery.  Mothballed in 1982, never to be produced again, you can't be a fan of Islay malts and not make it your life's ambition to taste some Port Ellen.  

At the very low proof of 40% ABV, this was a delicate dram.  It was a great way to start the night, just the utterly smooth, smoldering smoky warmth of a drink that's pretty hard to hate.  Sweet notes of perfume and cashew nuts mixing with mellow campfire smoke, some light citrus and salty sea air.  









1981 Bunnahabhain 31 Year
Signatory Cask Strength








We wanted to try a sherry cask Islay, and none are more famous than the old Bunnas.  Unfortunately in this case the common perception was that the sherry had gone too far.  There was a rancid quality of good grapes gone wrong.  This got better as the dram opened up over the course of the night, but it was still by far the least favorite of the lineup.  Very heavy sour grapes, lots of wood, an almost sickly sweet sherry aftertaste.  










1981 Caol Ila 31 Year
Silver Seal / Sestante








This one knocked it out of the park.  Cask strength (54.2%), thirty-one year Caol Ila.  Absolutely dynamite bottle!  It was so nutty, so rich, immensely smoky, it all came together with sweetness and balance.  Incredible luck with this bottle.  Deep smoke on the nose, but a very drinkable palate with leather, oak, hefty sea brine / salt water, rich spices (peppers and curries and herbs), white chocolate.  All rich lovely smoke and sweet on the finish.  









1975 Ardbeg 27 Year
Gordon & MacPhail 









1975 is Mr. Beast's year of birth, as well as several others in the club.  It was also a legendary year for Ardbeg, producing some of the most famous official releases ever.  This Gordon & MacPhail "Connoisseurs Choice" - though somewhat unfortunately down-proofed to 43% - was a taste of that amazing year for one of our favorite distilleries.  This was the favorite of probably half the club, amazingly smooth yet smoky with lots of wood, a little grassy / farmy quality going on, very warm with smoke floating in the background.  It started a bit flat and opened up incredibly well over the course of an hour or two.

Favorite Beasties

For those of us who prefer cask strength malts and love big peat, nothing beat the Caol Ila.  Overall the Ardbeg was the favorite of the night, with the Port Ellen coming in a very close second.   Both those bottles were gone in a flash.  Mission accomplished.  

Stay tuned for Beast Masters Club Episode 2: Best of American Rye Whiskey...
Port Ellen 23 Year - The Legend of the Jaguar Shark

March 22, 2013

Port Ellen 23 Year - The Legend of the Jaguar Shark



The Legend of the Jaguar Shark


Steve Zissou & Co
(courtesy The Life Aquatic)
Put on your red caps and man your submarines, because we're going deep.  This week's review is Indiana Jones' Lost Ark, Ponce de Leon's Fountain of Youth, and Steve Zissou's Jaguar Shark all rolled into one.  Because when it comes to Islay scotch, when it comes to single malts in general, and when it comes to beasts of the smoky variety, Port Ellen is the holy grail.

It's got all the ingredients:  The distillery has been closed for thirty years;  Existing stock is selling for seven thousand dollars a bottle;  Whisky hounds far and wide troll the earth looking to a rare sighting of this elusive and beautiful beast.





The Vault
(yes, that's a real Botticelli above)
Friends in Low Places

How were we able to score a taste?  In the library of a turn-of-the-century mansion built by one of America's most notorious capitalists, there is a secret vault.  Eight inches of solid steel guard this former titan's most precious treasures.  The sole individual with the combination is a weathered, peg-legged pirate named Captain Coop.  Good ol' Coop has taken down his fair share of smoky beasts in his day, and for a few gold doubloons and a promise of eternal secrecy, he turned the wheel and retrieved a dusty bottle from the vault for our collection.  Thanks Coop!  ;)  Sorry we blew the secrecy part.

The jewel that Coop emerged with is a McGibbon's Provenance bottling 23 Year Port Ellen Sherry Cask, distilled in 1982 - just one year before the distillery closed - and bottled in 2005.  It's an even rarer beast than your typical Port Ellen since they were not traditional aged in sherry barrels.  McGibbon's is an independent bottler owned by Douglas Laing, an extremely well-respected distributor out of Glasgow.  Basically, if you're a rich Scotsman, Douglas Laing hand picks your hooch from their private reserves and delivers cases of whisky that fit your tastes.  (One day, one day...)



Nice Try, Dr. J, Let Me Show You How It's Done

Why is Port Ellen such a phenomenon?  In its heyday it was the granddaddy of Islay distilleries.  Lagavulin, Ardbeg, and Laphroaig were all officially founded in the early 1800's, although this was due to the legalization of the whisky-making industry.  They were all surreptitiously distilling decades before then.  Port Ellen had the prime location on Islay's biggest harbor and closest to it's largest town.  It was the among the most prized of Islay's malts.  To put this in perspective, it would be like living on a block next to Michael Jordan, Julius Erving, and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, and regularly schooling them at HORSE.  Port Ellen was gutted and shut down in 1983 in a wave of corporate hysteria about overproduction and optimization, never to be reopened.  Today it is used to produce malting for many other distilleries, but has no distillation capabilities of it's own.

Current Operations

Port Ellen Facility (courtesy IslayImages.com)
Today, the Port Ellen Distillery is still an active and critical part of many of our beloved Islay whiskies since they produce maltings for distilleries like Lagavulin, and Caol Ila.  (There's a great video in that link that shows the entire malting process including the two ton peat fires!).  This is mostly a logistics decision.  Port Ellen is the closest location on Islay from where ships dock that bring barley from the mainland.  Port Ellen distillery had the largest malting and fermenting capacity and this may have determined the decision to stop distilling whiskey there and simply use it to produce distillation-ready malts for the other Diageo distilleries.  Sad, but it's probably one of the reasons that Lagavulin can continue to produce such quantities of fantastic quality whisky today.

Port Ellen Malting Facility w/ Cloud of Peat Smoke


It's a little known fact that a huge part of the actual peat-burning that goes on in Islay today is done at Port Ellen.  So guarded is this secret that there are only tours of the facility allowed once per year at the local Islay Festival every spring.  But it's well known to the locals since massive clouds of peat smoke come pouring out of this malt mecca every day.  Imagine driving home from work through a fog of burning peat.  Sounds like our personal paradise.






Hype?

Is it all just hype?  Do people love Port Ellen just because it's a rare and ever-dwindling supply?  It's kind of like asking if Hendrix would still be the greatest guitarist of all time if he hadn't died at 28.  Would he?  Yes, yes he would.  Case closed.


More from Douglas Laing

If we've piqued your curiosity about Douglas Laing, there are a bunch of other bottles that might be of interest.  They have a line of "vatted" scotch (in other words not quite a blend, but a mix of two or three single malts).  They make a proprietary Islay blend of Ardbeg, Bowmore, Caol Ila, and Port Ellen called Big Peat (Oh yeah Big Peat will be getting a SmokyBeast review, as if you had to ask, stay tuned..).  They also make a "double barrel" series where they combine one very smoky Islay malt with another - unexpected - single malt.  So far they've combined Laphroiag with Macallan, Ardbeg with Glen Rothes, and Bowmore with Highland Park.  A lot of these seem to float in and out of stock, but you can usually find them around.

Ok enough suspense, we're in the Jaguar Shark's cave at the bottom of the ocean.  Let's crack the bottle and have a taste.  How's it measure up?

Wifey's Tasting Notes

Appearance:  Perfection.  Not too light, and not too dark.  Just right.  And all natural, to boot.  It's pretty much exactly what you'd hope for in a scotch.  Even the bottle is a thing of beauty.  Even if you didn't know what you had, you get the sense that there is something special here.

Nose:  It might be because we first tasted this in a room in an over 100 year old library, but something about this takes me back there.  It 's like you're sitting in front of a fire, reading a good book, and of course drinking a good scotch.  The smoke is off the charts, which I think is the most special thing about it.  But it's not for everyone.

Palate: I make no qualms about telling everyone that I like my scotches peaty.  But this one takes the cake.  This is smoky beyond compare.  It's blended in a way that you can tell that these Port Ellen fellas knew what they were doing.  Besides the smoke, I get a lot of rich caramel and black pepper, and maybe a hint of saltiness.  It's really one of the more beautiful and awe inspiring scotches I've ever had the pleasure of tasting.

Finish: Smooth, spicy and rich, with a hint of tobacco.  Unlike anything I've ever had.   I am literally savoring the last drops of my dram, as I know this might be the last time we meet.  Sad, but true.  But worth the experience.


Hubby's Tasting Notes

For comparison I poured a dram of Lagavulin Distiller's Edition (my favorite scotch of the year) next to the Port Ellen in order to contrast the two.

Appearance:  It's a rosy copper.  A shade darker than the Lagavulin, and redder.  It's also a bit cloudier. More translucent than clear.

Nose:  Everything you'd hope for and dream of in an Islay is here: the campfire, the old leather, the honey, and the toffee.  But there's something else too, an exotic richness.  Like Indian curry.  Yes, sometimes I go to "Curry Hill" (New Yorker colloquial for the strip of Indian / Pakistani shops on Lexington in the 30's) and buy pre-roasted spice mixes.  They make a yellow curry.  It's warm and rich and wonderful.  Mix that with an old library and the rocks next to a campfire and there you go.

Palate:  It opens up warm and almost evaporates on the palate.  I can feel the flavors move down from the little ocean saltiness at the tip of the tongue, to the mid-palate sweetness, to the bottom-of-the-tongue warmth and richness.  It's the balance that's striking.  I've heard this before, but didn't really get it until I tasted it firsthand.  It's not the peatiest or the smokiest.  It's not the most sweet, fruity, sherry-packed.  But the integration of the peat/smoke and the sweet fruit is impeccable.  There is no burn, yet you can deeply taste the spirit.  A quick A /  B with the Lagavulin is very interesting.  It matches the smoke of the Lag, but the upfront smoke disappears very quickly and the richness remains.

Finish:  Lasting.  The smoke remains for a full minute across your nose and the bridge of your mouth.  All the spices mingle just perfectly on the aftertaste.  This is where, dare I'll say, that it crushes the Lag.  While I could sit for hours enjoying the smoky finish of the Lag, the way the flavor and smoke intermix here is, in a word, unique.


Honorary Doctorate

Our reviews are based on value.  Since this bottle has been off the market for years, we can't give it a letter grade.  Think of our typical reviews as a final exam at SmokyBeast University.  The Port Ellen doesn't have to take the exam.  It gets an honorary Ph. D.  The only sad part is when the bottle is gone, because we know there are a finite number of these on our little planet and each time you finish a glass it literally could be your last.  But you know what?  Life is not about the future, it's about the moment.  This was one to remember.  /smokybeast