Glenfarclas 25 Year - We'd Love to Love You Baby

January 26, 2013

Glenfarclas 25 Year - We'd Love to Love You Baby

We'd Love to Love You Baby

We'd love to love Glenfarclas.  It's the kind of no frills whisky that turns us on.  It comes in a smart bottle without a lot of nonsense.  (Don't you sometimes feel like you're paying a few hundred bucks just for the bottle??)  Glenfarclas is a Speyside distillery that's been doing their thing since the mid 1800's.  Glenfarclas attributes it's success to fresh spring water from "the heather clad slopes of the 840 metre high Ben Rinnes mountain, purple in autumn and snow clad in winter," and "the unique size and shape of the Glenfarclas copper pot stills".

Speyside
Speyside
Due to our obsession with Islay, we haven't yet featured a Speyside scotch.  However, the majority of scotch actually comes from Speyside.  Speyside is a region in the northeastern Scottish Highlands named for the areas surrounding the river Spey including Moray, Badenoch, and Strathspey.  There are over 40 Speyside distilleries, making it the most prolific scotch producing region in the world.  Most of the common malts that you'll find in bars come from Speyside like Macallan, Glenfiddich, and Glenlivet.  There are also some real gems from the area like Balvenie, Aberlour, and Glenrothes.

Generally our hunt for smoky beasts keeps us away from Speyside.  Their malts tend to be less peaty and certainly less beastly.  Speyside malts were our first forays into scotch, back when Jack Daniels was SOP (standard operating procedure) and anything containing a 'Glen' was for special occasions.  Once our tastes matured, we moved quickly towards Islay.  Some people prefer Speyside.  Evidently the argument is that peat smoke takes away from the fruity flavors of the whisky and masks some of the character.  We don't agree, but "hey man it's your trip".  So if you're a huge Speyside fan, you might want to discount our reviews and find a site more aligned to your particular sentiments.

Expectations
Ok, brass tacks: for over $150 per bottle, we're expecting to be blown away.  Since we've showed countless examples of excellent scotch at well under $100/bottle, doubling these prices really should result in something special.  We hate cutting right to the dollars and cents, but as your faithful narrators and guides through the wonderful world of whisky, sometimes we have to go ahead and break it down for you and your wallet, respectively.  Glenfarclas 25-year is available from KLWines for $159.99 or from Amazon for $169.99.  We don't expect a scotch that's twice as expensive to be twice as good.  We appreciate, to some extent, the law of diminishing returns.  But we're going to be tougher on something in this price range because, well, it's your dollar and you'd expect nothing less.

Tasting Notes
Nose: Surprisingly sharp, mostly alcohol with strong citrus flavors and some sweet honey.

Body: There's not a lot here.  Some mild fruits, no peat or smoke, a little sweetness at the sides of the mouth, and some citrus and banana.  Not very much depth.  Pleasant, but not memorable.

Finish: Remains too sharp for it's age.  It's missing the mellow full flavor we'd expect from a 25 year whisky.  A little grape and honey on the aftertaste, but still too much of the alcoholic tinge to be in the class of our top choices.

Review
We're sad to give Glenfarclas 25 a "C", but at over $150/bottle, we want to be honest.  Chalk it up to our preference for Islay over Spey, after all this is SmokyBeast!  Far from masking the flavor of the scotch, in our experience, peat smoke masks only the alcoholic burn of the whisky which actually brings out all the little sweet and fruity notes.   Our advice is to save your money.  If you want to experience the brand, buy a bottle of the 12 Year.  It's a third of the price.  If you love that, move on to the 17 for around $100.  If you're in love, then by all means plunk down for the 25, or throw caution to the wind and throw down $500 for the 40-Year.  If you do that, let us know what you think, because we'll be sipping something with smoke!

If you're jones'ing to try some Speyside, there are other malts which achieve the smoothness we'd expect at this price. Try the Glenrothes 1988, or the Balvenie 17-Year Doublewood.

/SmokyBeast
Happy Burns Day from SmokyBeast!

January 25, 2013

Happy Burns Day from SmokyBeast!

Scotch Drink by Robert Burns

Let other poets raise a fracas
Bout vines, and wines, an drucken Bacchus,
An crabbit names an stories wrack us,
An grate our lug:
I sing the juice Scotch bear can mak us,
In glass or Jug.

O thou, my Muse! guid auld Scotch drink!
Whether thro' wimplin worms thou jink,
Or, richly brown, ream owre the brink,
In glorious faem
Inspire me, till I lisp an wink,
To sing thy name!

Caol Ila Distiller's Edition - Samurai Duel at Sunrise

January 19, 2013

Caol Ila Distiller's Edition - Samurai Duel at Sunrise

'The Water of Life' and 'The Sound of Islay'
(*spoiler alert, skip this review and go buy this bottle immediately)

We're always intrigued by romantic sounding phrases like "The Water of Life" and "The Sound of Islay".  And when we get to use them to talk about whisky, all the better!

Whisky, in the original Gaelic, was called "Usigebaugh" which translates literally to "The Water of Life".  This speaks volumes to the seriousness which which Scots take their whisky.  It's not difficult to imagine a shipwrecked crew of hardcore Scotsmen with only enough room on the life boat for one barrel.  "What shall it be lads, fresh water or whisky?"  And just a chorus of "Ars" and "Grrra's" and the water getting tossed into the sea.

"The Sound of Islay" is the straight of water that separates The Isle of Islay (aka the secret fortress of SmokyBeasts) from it's neighbor The Isle of Jura.  "Sound of Islay" in Gaelic is "Caoil Ile".

The Sound of Islay
(http://www.islayinfo.com)

So what "Water of Life" is named for "The Sound of Islay"?  You guessed it: Caol Ila.  Since Islay is the mecca for righteous smoky beasts (due to it's abundance of peat bogs), and the Scots obviously take their Water of Life quite seriously, this bodes well for this week's beast of choice - the Caol Ila Distiller's Edition.



Expectations
The standard bottling from Caol Ila is a 12-Year.  It's available from Astor for $57.99.  Our thoughts on the standard Caol Ila is that it is a very respectable beast.  It has some of the best smoky peaty goodness of any scotch on the market.  It's rich and it's spicy and it leaves a powerful finish that stays on your tongue for a few minutes after your first sip.  It's definitely worth trying, and it's a go-to bottle for some of our closest whisky confidants.  However, in our meek and humble opinion, at around $60 bucks it just doesn't have the smoothness that we're looking for.  We'll always spend the extra $10 for a bottle of Lagavulin.  Alas Caol Ila, so close to a trusted friend, has taken a back seat from our shopping list.  Still there was a soft spot in our hearts for this forgotten beast.

We were totally floored by the Lagavulin Distiller's Edition, and also by the Talisker Distiller's Edition.  Could the Caol Ila compete?  We had very high expectations of this "Double Matured" version that's been aged an extra two years in moscatel barrels (distilled in 1998 and bottled in 2012 for a 14-year vintage).  Moscatel is a Portugese version of port wine, which should add a nice balance and mellowness to the malt.  So how did the Distiller's Edition measure up?


Tasting Notes
Appearance: The color is a deep amber gold.  Very intriguing and lovely.  Yes, the bottle is tinted, but thankfully the scotch retains the gorgeous brunette hue once in the glass.  Your first sip will be filled with anticipation and the feeling that something wonderful is about to happen.

Nose: The first thing we noticed was that the smell is amazingly mellow and warm.  Putting your nose deep into the glass, it smells like the beads of water on the surface of a green apple after you wash it.  There is very little fire, and almost none of the sharp heat and ammonia that creeps up your nose when you smell an average whisky.

Body: The taste stays true to form.  This may be the smoothest scotch we've ever tasted.  It retains the rich peat smoke from the 12-Year, but it's pushed way back to the very base of your tongue.  The flavors are a very mild honey and little individual bursts of toffee, citrus, and coffee.  The texture is very clean, not oily like the peated Bunnahabhain.

Finish: It dances across your palate and vanishes with only a deep aroma of smoke and fruit.  The green grapes from the Portugese port are evident only in the finish, and wonderfully balance out the tiny (and we mean tiny, barely noticeable) hint of fire at the very end.  It's a heat like the very last miniscule pop of a candle that's been left to go out by itself at the end of the night.  It's just enough to remind you that you are in fact drinking whisky.  Think about the finish of a white wine, with just a hint of rich spirit behind it.  It's breathtaking.





The Review
We're starting to see that scotch, like people, starts to find its adult form around 13-14 years.  The difference between this bottle and the standard 12-Year is staggering.  This is reinforced by our recent experience with Lagavulin 12-Year, which in our opinion lacked the maturity and hence the smoothness we love in the 16-Year.  It seems that every year from 10 to 16 is critical and something magical happens right around 14-16 years where the barrel and the spirit combine forces to deliver perfection.  

At $77.99 from AstorWines.com, this bottle absolutely slaughters it.  We'd be shocked if there was a single bottle left on the shelves after a week or two.  We're seriously thinking of buying a case and locking it away for future generations to enjoy.  The Caol Ila Distiller's gets a big fat "A" .  No questions asked, no doubt.  We've had so many more expensive bottles (we won't name them) that don't even come close to being this good, it's really just not fair.  

The Ultimate Shootout
With ample stock of the Lagavulin Distiller's Edition on hand from our feature a couple of weeks ago, we decided that an ultimate shootout was in order.  Two glasses.  Neat.  Mano a mano.  Lagavulin Distiller's versus Caol Ila Distiller's.  Picture two master samurai drawing swords on a cliff-top at sunrise.  

Preparing for Battle

Lift, Draw, Smell

Nose:  The two whiskies are sisters.  Warm, sweet.  The Lagavulin showing more caramel and honey, the Caol Ila more crispness with granny apple and a hint of lemon rind.  Both are so elegant and warm.  Just for fun, we took a whiff of a blended whisky we had sitting on hand (it shall remain nameless, but it's got a White Label...).  The contrast is striking, the cheaper blend was fresh turpentine and uncapped magic marker compared to these mature and graceful ladies.  

Appearance:  The Lag is two shades darker.  The center of a Skor Bar rather than the chamomile tea shade of the Coal.

Body:  The Caol is a full smoke, but somehow light on the tongue.  The tiny spark at the back of the mouth returns, taking shape this time as a tiny squeeze of lemon across the highest part of the tongue between the back molars.  The Lag is full smoke and yet deeper.  The heat isn't at the highest point of the tongue, but on both sides close towards the bottom.  A hint more savory.  

Finish:  Both whiskys finish with the deep glow of an old friend.  You can taste the same ocean breeze blowing over them.  After all they are neighbors, drawn from the same fresh springs by the Sound of Islay and aged on the same salt water coast.  The Lagavulin stays deep, revealing layer after layer of the coffee, caramel, chocolate-covered cherry richness balancing the warmth with thick honey.  The Caol Ila rides higher on the smoke, delivering an earlier and fresher finish towards the roof of the mouth.  Staying in the orchard with peaches, apricots, and a hint of fresh sage. 

The victor?  It's really a matter of taste.  And by that I mean we argued smilingly through another three inches of each bottle and went to sleep happily undecided.  If I was eating fruit, I'd go with the Caol.  Chocolate, I'd go with the Lag.  Both are spectacular.  For the money (Caol is $80, Lag is $100) the Caol wins.  However you can read our head-to-head on the Lag 16-Year vs the Distiller's Edition, and for $60 the Lag 16-Year is still tough to beat.  Still for the money, the Caol Ila Distiller's is some of the finest scotch you can buy.  Just since it's new and novel, we are proclaiming it the victor.  If we'd published this in December instead of January, we'd have been tempted to name it our Scotch of the Year.  

But don't take our advice.  You owe it to yourself to come to your own conclusion before both of these beautiful smoky beasts are gone.  Skip the bars tonight, snuggle up with loved one, and treat yourself to a bottle of the Caol Ila Distiller's Edition.  It's called living and until you have, you haven't.  /smokybeast

The Mighty Lag - Lagavulin 16-Year (A Life-Changing Dram)

January 12, 2013

The Mighty Lag - Lagavulin 16-Year (A Life-Changing Dram)

Life-Changing Introductions

We first discovered The Lag at a traditional Robert Burns supper in western Massachusetts.  Your humble narrators - at the time a boyfriend and girlfriend in their respective early thirties and late twenties, now a husband and wife team with a bouncing baby girl - were stunned.  We'd had whisky, but nothing like this.  We fell in love.  With the drink, with each other, and with one of those beautiful moments in life when all of one's senses align.  Lagavulin is and shall remain the ultimate smoky beast.



The Scene
January 25th.  Logs roasted slowly in a giant stone hearth.  There was haggis (layman's term: sheep guts).  There were neeps & tatties (turnips & potatoes).  There were reels (think Scottish square dancing).  As is traditional, all the guests stood and read Robbie's golden words.  And what better words could there be to our favorite scotch in the world than Scotland's greatest poet, a man who wrote a eulogy to the very barley malt that sacrifices it's life to bring us our prized whisky?

John Barleycorn by Robert Burns
Top: Robbie Burns, Bottom: Haggis
They wasted, o'er a scorching flame,
The marrow of his bones;
But a miller used him worst of all,
For he crushed him 'tween two stones.

And they hae ta'en his very heart's blood,
And drank it round and round;
And still the more and more they drank,
Their joy did more abound.


John Barleycorn was a hero bold,
Of noble enterprise;
For if you do but taste his blood,
'Twill make your courage rise;


'Twill make a man forget his woe;
'Twill heighten all his joy:
'Twill make the widow's heart to sing,
Tho' the tear were in her eye.

Then let us toast John Barleycorn,
Each man a glass in hand;
And may his great posterity
Ne'er fail in old Scotland!


And then there was scotch.  A dark sultry bottle was produced from a navy box.  Your faithful narrators, at the time boyfriend & girlfriend - now husband & wife, rose glasses in a toast.  A first sip was shared.  History was made.

Our Favorite Man on the Planet
To understand the heaven that was about to enter our lips, you have to get familiar with a certain breed of Scotsman.  A gentleman who has spend forty years digging peat, roasting barley, and slowly, patiently, watching barrels of malt age and mature in salty ocean breezes by the coast of Islay.  A man who's uncle, and grandfather, and generations of relatives walked this same path.   And a man who is about to divulge a deep dark secret about expensive whisky.  Ladies & gentlemen: Iain McArthur.


Drinking
Haven't packed your bags and bought a ticket to the Scottish Isles yet?  Ok, your loss, let's drink some whisky.  For on that cold birthday of Robbie Burns, your faithful co-authors of SmokyBeast were about to meet: The Mighty Lag.  Lagavulin 16-Year.

He - hubby - was at first confused.  Was there something wrong with this bottle?  Had the alcohol evaporated out of it?  How could it be so smooth?  So smoky and yet so utterly drinkable?  Eyebrows frowning out of sheer disbelief, he took a second sip.

She - wifey - eyebrows up in eureka!  Love at first taste.

There's just nothing like it.

Tasting Notes
Nose:  Peat, peat, & more peat.  Smoke, & more smoke.  Leather.  Toffee, caramel.  And a hint of orange rind.

Body:  Sweet honey cake followed by a rich coffee and mocha.  Extending over the palate with more hints of citrus.  On second sip: little hints of banana, pineapple, and apple.  Spices: cinnamon and nutmeg, a flash of hot black pepper and ginger.  Almost no fire whatsoever.  The tiny heat is offset beautifully by the full peat smoke.  The most drinkable whisky on the planet.  On any planet...

Finish:  The alcohol vanishes like a fairytale princess at midnight.  It's replaced by a ghost of smoke that lingers on the breath, like you just had a tiny puff of a very expensive cigar.  It's a finish that you relish, slowly letting the aftertaste linger.  The sugar leaves first, then the fruit, and then you're left with the smoke.  The most pleasant sensation...


Legacy
This is a whisky that you'll never forget.  The most distinctive taste that could never be confused with any other.  Someone asked us once if we could really tell the difference between different whiskies.  We looked at each other and just said "Lagavlin, for sure!".  It's utterly unique.

And Now For Iain's Secret
Everyone assumes that when it comes to scotch, the older the better.  You'd be lucky to get a wee sip of some hidden beast that's spend fifty or sixty years aging in the back of the distillery.  Right?  Well everyone says so but Iain.  And this scotch has been in Iain's blood for generations, so he probably knows a thing or two about vintage.  He takes visitors on  distillery tours and watches them sip Lagavulin like a proud father at his daughter's first piano recital.  And there's a reason that the good people at Lagavulin bottle it at 16 years.  In the words of Iain: "We can't rush Lagavulin.  Lagavulin, it takes time...  Ten year old is just baby Lagavulin to me."  (Which makes sense based on our review of the 12-Year Cask Strength). "We have sixteen year old Lagavulin here just now that we take out and let people taste, and what I say to them is 'we won't get better', Lagavulin 16 Year old is excellent...  The oldest cask in Lagavulin is 44-year old.  I call that a ladies dram.  It's lost its smokiness and its peatiness, but it you put it in your hand and rub it with the heat of your hand, it's amazing how it all comes back."  One day we will make our pilgrimage to Islay and meet Iain in person.  Maybe he'll let us taste some of that 44-year old ladies dram.  Until then we'll take him at his word that it doesn't get better than the 16-year.  It's hard to imagine how it could be.

Lagavulin 16 gets our first, and maybe our only "A+".  It's simply the best.

/SmokyBeast
Review: Lagavulin "Double Matured" Distiller's Edition - Holy Ximenez!

January 1, 2013

Review: Lagavulin "Double Matured" Distiller's Edition - Holy Ximenez!



Countryside Motoring
"Double Matured" is a wonderful sounding phrase.  It makes you think "old"... in a good way.  Helen Mirren and Judi Dench come to mind.  Time-honored beauties that could teach you a thing or two about the world while drinking you under the table.  We picture long drives through the British countryside in houndstooth coats under a light rain.  Conversation about the good old days when Connery was Bond, driving was 'motoring', and martinis were lunch.  Old leather and natural wood grain and faded sepia maps that lead to treasures unimaginable.

View from my Rolls convertible as I'm motoring with Helen
in the British countryside.

And Back to the Present...
News Year's Day 2013 - the Mayans were wrong, we're still here and still drinking, Judi is a badass M in a new Bond film, and Ryan Seacrest's tribute to Dick Clark has given way to an Odd Couple marathon - a perfect time to sit back, dream of the old days, and have a glass of fine whisky.  And why not continue our series on Lagavulin's Limited Edition 2012 releases?  This time we're queuing up the Lagavulin "Double Matured" Distiller's Edition.  This lovely beast has undergone a second aging process in Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks.  Now the "double matured" tagline does seem somewhat misleading, since the bottle clearly notes "Distilled in 1996, Bottled in 2012" i.e. it's 16 years old just like the original.  Presumably the "double matured" just refers to a second barreling in a different type of cask.  But nonetheless we're very excited.


On Grape Smuggling & Sherry

The illustrious and mysterious
Pedro Ximenez grape.
Pedro Ximenez Sherry is a dark, mahogany colored sweet desert wine.  Robert Parker describes it as "fig, apricot, and raisins... so thick and rich that is seems to fall apart in the mouth in pieces."  It's a "varietal wine" meaning that the name comes from the specific grape.  In this case, the Pedro Ximenez (PX) grape is a white grape purported to originate from the Canary Islands before being transplanted to the Rhine Valley.  As the legend has it, the actual Pedro Ximenez was a sailor in King Charles V's navy stationed in the Spanish Netherlands.  He smuggled the grape from Rhine to Jerez, Spain in his baggage and began one of the oldest traditions in Spanish wine making.

Scottish whisky distilleries flock to PX Sherry producers in hopes of purchasing their used casks.  Aging scotch in PX casks yields a rich, sweet, dark, and mellow character to the malt.  Glenmorangie, Glendronach, BenRiach, and Laphroig have all offered a PX cask whisky at one time or another.

Expectations
The Lagavulin Distiller's Edition is bottled at 43% and is available right now from Caskers at $97.99.  (spoiler alert: skip the rest of the review, click that link and buy it before it's all gone!).  Ok, we were disappointed by the Lagavulin 12-Year Cask Strength.  It was a wild ride, fast and fiery, like an Italian supercar, but in the end left us longing for the smoother comfort of our beloved sedan.  The Lagavulin 16 has been our favorite whisky for years.  Can the Distiller's Edition compete?  Or, dare we dream, surpass The Mighty Lag as our number one dram?



Tasting Notes
Appearance:  Ok, ok we know that purists will tell you not to even take notice of the color of a whisky, since even <gasp> The Mighty Lag may contain coloring agents like caramel.  There is a lot of hot debate on this topic with people even resorting to translating Swedish imports that have to be labelled for added ingredients.  And there are certainly cases where flavor doesn't match up.  But you know what, when it comes to Lagavulin, we don't buy it and we don't really care.  After all Straight Bourbon Whiskey is expressly forbidden to add coloring, and it gets plenty dark.  So why shouldn't we give our hero the benefit of the doubt?  The Lagavulin Distiller's Edition is a beautiful dark toffee color.  Next to the 16-Year, it's just a tiny shade darker in color, which would make sense given the extra sherry-barrel aging.  It's a beautiful tone, reflecting darkly in the light like a combination of Earl Grey tea and sunset.

Nose: Our first whiff is delightfully encouraging.  There is no medicinal alcohol scent at all.  The aroma is pure sweet brown sugar and orange zest.  It opens up after a few minutes into roasted almonds, cinnamon, chamomile, lemon peels, spicy cloves, and honey.  Compared to the 16-Year, the nose is noticeably more defined, with more spice and pop.  Bottom line, it smells friggin' amazing.

Body: Yes!  Finally a companion with the same unbelievable smoothness as traditional Lagavulin.  There is absolutely no burn, no wince after you take your first neat sip.  The taste is sweet, moving from a thick sugar in the middle of the tongue to a citrusy explosion on the sides of the mouth.  When it hits the back of the tongue, you discover cherries and nutmeg, and a wonderful spicy and warm flavor.

Finish: As we've come to love, the finish seems to go on for hours.  The fruits are replaced by a deep peaty smoke, oak, and - yes - sherry wine.  The smoke erases all the after-bite of the whisky.  Far from reaching for a chaser, we just sat there smiling and enjoying the lingering smoky goodness for a few minutes after our first sip.

The Review
The Lagavulin Distiller's edition gets a straight "A".  As we've come to expect from Lagavulin, it simply destroys just about every other whisky, even those that come with much higher price tags.  Everything about this magical beast is right - from the bottle to the color to the nose to the taste to the finish, this is what whisky is all about.  We're going to have to buy a second bottle, just so that we can indulge in this one without worrying that we'll run out.  Hey, life is too short not to buy this twice.  And even for folks who don't really get into expensive whisky, life is too short not to spend $100 to experience this treat.

The Head-to-Head
Drumroll please...  Ok so which is better, the 16-Year or the Distiller's Edition?  On this point, your humble narrators could not form a consensus.  Hubby prefers the Distiller's edition.  It's got more pop, more fruit, more grape and more citrus.  It's slightly lighter and vibrates higher in the head above your eyebrows.  Wifey prefers the traditional.  It lands lower, underneath your jaw.  It has less fruit and more caramel, chocolate, mocha, and toffee.   The peat smoke sits on its own, more clearly defined without the extra notes of sherry.  We both agreed on two things: 1) At around $100 versus $60 for the 16-year, we can't say that it's nearly twice as good.  2) However (a big however) both of these whiskies are well worth $100 per bottle!  (That's why its so unfair to other whiskies that the 16-year is only $60).  Honestly life is about the journey, not the destination, and getting to taste test these two beauties - even if we couldn't come to a full conclusion - makes life that much sweeter.

Happy drinking, and happy new year!  -smokybeast