Review: Berry Brothers' Glen Grant 1974 - A Dead Body in a Whisky Barrel!  Disco Dram #3

June 26, 2013

Review: Berry Brothers' Glen Grant 1974 - A Dead Body in a Whisky Barrel! Disco Dram #3

A Barrel That Is A Coffin!

abridged from The Vanishing Smuggler by Stephen Chalmers

    Giles Serymegeour looked long and stupidly at the barrel.  What kind of joke was this?  Then slowly, into his eyes there dawned a look of horror and dread.  He suddenly remembered that which Smuggle-Erie had said - about bringing home Grant in "a barrel - that is a coffin!"  The perspiration stood in big beads on the miser's face, although the morning was quite fresh.  The whispering and knocking at his cowardly conscience became a thundering and shrieking of certainty.  He laid his hot, trembling hands upon it.  The cold iron rings stung him like serpents.  He flung open the shop door, seized the barrel and began hurdling it inside.  It was heavy.  And strangely balanced!  He could not feel even the weight of liquid, but his frenzied imagination seemed to hear the sullen rolling and rumbling.    
   Then the barrel was opened.  
   There are some things in life which are better left undescribed.  The scene that immediately ensued is one of them.  Whether Captain John Grant, master of the Thistle Down, may or may not have been the infamous smuggler Heather Bloom, concerned us little in the face of the tragedy.  A murder had been done!

1975 Birthday Bonanza Finale - Well Almost!

First the bad news: We were lining up a string of malts from hubby's year of birth - 1975.  We had a final dram in mind, a disco king so to speak, but it got held up in transit.  Alas the "hubby's getting old" celebration was in jeopardy.  Now the good news: we found a badass 1974 malt to make up for it.  Sure, whisky that's as old as you has that certain something, that shared history, that magical year of birth, yada yada.  But whisky that's actually older than you, now we're talking about a big brother'ish veneration, a new level of respect for one's elders.  Enter our stately sherried senior-classman: The Berry Brother's & Rudd Glen Grant Distillery 1974 vintage, 37 year-old single cask.



In Heaven

Berry Brother's & Rudd was founded on St James Street in London in 1698, so yeah they know a thing or two about whisky.  They offer a line of their own bottlings, as well as a cellar of hand-picked stock.  Berry Brother's is one of the top wine merchants in the world, specializing in the cream of the crop - Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Rhone.  If you are a hifalutin English gentlemen, you may choose to have Berry Bro's cellar some of your vast wine collection.  They will care for your millions of pounds in rare reds and add choice selections twice per year for future imbibing or sale.  Basically we just want to set up cots in Berrys' and sleep there in the cellar surrounded by wine and scotch forever.

Now Back To That Infamous Barrel!

Glen Grant is our kind of story.  It's not known whether the fictional account above is based on real events.  Was John Grant captain of the notorious Thistle Down?  Did he go by the pseudonym Heather Bloom and command shipmates with names like Smuggle-Erie and The Red Mole?  Did he end up being delivered dead in a whisky barrel to the miser Serymegeour?  Unclear.  It is a known fact that both John and James Grant were acknowledged smugglers and bootleggers before they founded Glen Grant in 1840.  It is also well known that James led seven hundred Grant clansmen in the 'Raid on Elgin' - the last clan revolt in Scottish history.

The Grant's stomping grounds in Rothes were bordered to the north by The Port of Garmouth and to the south by the River Spey.  Easily accessible by sea and river, and surrounded by vast plains of barley, it was a whisky smuggler's paradise.  Since whisky distilling wasn't officially legal until the middle of the eighteen-hundreds, all whisky makers were officially smugglers, but these two evidently took it to new heights.  After the brothers' passing, young James "The Major" Grant took over the distillery.   The Major was purportedly the first man in the Highlands to own car, and Glen Grant was the first distillery to have electric lights.

Today Glen Grant is one of the biggest selling single malt whiskies in the world.  Their bottles range from "The Major's Reserve," a low-end No Age Statement malt, to a mid-range 10 Year, and quickly jump into an amazing range of vintages and bottlings dating back to the 1930's and covering every decade in between.

Tasting Notes

Appearance:  Unchillfiltered - Uncoloured - Oh yeah!  The color is flat-out gorgeous.  No color correction in that centerfold above.  This is a dark and lovely shade.  Almost a combination of Jack Daniels and Welches Grape Juice.

Nose:  Lots of amazing fruit going on here.  Watermelon, cherries, lemon, a medley of berries.  A hefty undercut of oak.  And wonderful fresh herbals - just-cut mint, fresh thyme, rosemary.  On a second pass more citrus, but getting denser into an orange rind, and some of the nice leather polish that we get with old whisky.

Body:  There's a distinct creaminess.  Like Dr. Brown's Cream Soda.  Intense vanilla.  Some root beer flavors coming through.  Really lovely desert-like body, very delicate and immensely enjoyable.

Finish: A medium length finish where the vanilla and sweet cream fade into a nice belly warmth and sweetness on the tongue.  Fading into hints of oak and leather, twist of lemon and lingering honey/molasses.

Review

The Berry Brother's Glen Grant is available from our friends at RoyalMileWhiskies for £120.79 (around $185).  So this is a real splurge, or if you're feeling euphemistic (read: drunk), it's an investment.  And hey if you had enough self-control to let this bad boy sit on your shelf for twenty years, it might well be an investment.  But who's kidding who?  You'd sooner end up dead in a barrel than let this stuff sit on your shelf.  Of course you're going to drink it!  Anyway, at this price we wouldn't recommend anything that wasn't truly special.  This one is.  It's something that anyone and everyone would appreciate, from a first date to a veteran whisky hound.  What it's not:  a smoky beast.  If you're looking for a peaty, Islay gem, this is not your pony.  But for something that comes out on a special occasion, after a beautiful meal, and doesn't wipe the palate with smoke and peat, this is pretty close to ideal.  It was a perfect way to cap off birthday month, thanks for celebrating with us!  /smokybeast

Click here for the next installment of Disco Drams, a whopper of 1970's vintage scotch: Signatory 1973 Craigduff, & Samaroli Glenlivet 1977 

Review: Balblair 1975 - Part Two of Our 1975 Birthday Vintage Bonanza

June 18, 2013

Review: Balblair 1975 - Part Two of Our 1975 Birthday Vintage Bonanza

There's Something About Booze as Old as You

As wifey and hubby's shared birthday month rolls on and Manhattan's thermostats begin to climb, we take shelter in the comfort of our trusty window unit, a good book (Telegraph Avenue by Michael Chabon which fittingly enough sports a 1970's fusion-jazz soundtrack), and another disco-dram from hubby's birth year, 1975.


We bumped into a miniature bottle of Balblair 1975 courtesy of our friends at RoyalMileWhiskies.com.  Miniatures are brilliant because while the full-size bottle of this beast comes in at around £187.50 ($300 US), the 5cl (~2 Oz) miniatures were only around £10 or fifteen bucks.  Let's face it, if we walked into a bar and they had a 1975 single malt on the menu for fifteen bucks, we'd be all over it in a heartbeat.  Of course we bought two.


Speaking of fusion, here is the best jazz fusion record of all time - In A Silent Way by Miles Davis (1969), featuring the most mighty of electric jazz lineups: John McLaughlin on electric guitar, both Chick Corea AND Herbie Hancock on Fender Rhodes, Wayne Shorter on sax, Dave Holland on bass, and Tony Williams on drums.  It's a nice soundtrack to this review if you are in possession of headphones..  





There's something very comforting about booze that's the same age as you.  It probably grew up watching Diff'rent Strokes and Knight Rider with a pouch of Big League Chew.  Ok well it's Scottish so maybe not.  Maybe it just sat in a barrel in a warehouse in the Highlands waiting for a home.  Either way, we walked our path together through Duran Duran and Def Leppard, through acid washed jeans and break dancing, through the nineties and the 00's, mellowing out over time, greying at the temples, and waiting to finally meet on this auspicious day.  Here's to you Balblair, where have you been all my life?!




Oh That's Where You've Been

Balblair is one of the oldest distilleries in the Scottish Highlands dating back to the mid 1700's.  It's located in Ross-shire just north of Glenmorangie.  Balblair is all about VINTAGE.  Their claim to fame is their distillery manager John MacDonald, who only releases each cask at its perfect age.  Rather than the typical age statement (a standard 14-Year or 16-Year bottle), Balblair is released by the year of distillation.  They range from a 1965 vintage up to 2002.  By choosing the exact age at which to release each batch, Mr. MacDonald can achieve the perfect balance or as they call it the 'optimum maturation'.  These little bottles are the Second Release of the 1975 vintage, aged in American ex-sherry oak casks.

Tasting Notes

Nose:  No rush here.  We've been spiritually connected for almost four decades, so what's another ten minutes for this birthday beast to open up?  The time was a good idea.  The nose is lemon pound cake, the wonderful syrupy kind that comes in a plastic wrapper.  There's some fresh citrus too: Meyer lemons and freshly sliced pineapple.  Finally some botanicals - juniper, lilacs, and a hint of spicy ginger.

Body:  This is really just a wonderful smooth body.  Very well balanced with honey, lemons, and that same flower garden freshness.  It's just dangerously smooth with no alcohol burn and the most pleasing sensation on the palate of fresh cut citrus dancing around on the tongue.

Finish:  Extremely subtle finish.  This is no beast, but rather a very elegant lady.  There's a distinct finish of refined aroma and taste, like walking through an old fashioned pharmacy full of fancy and expensive soaps and perfumes with labels beyond any hope of pronunciation.  The spirit wakes up on the finish as well with a ghostly warmth spreading up into your nose and cheeks.

Shaping Up

This is shaping up to be the best birthday month ever.  We found a soul-mate, a contemporary, a seventy-five vintage gem.  We're for sure saving that second little miniature morsel to drink on birthday night, unless someone out there in web-land wants to send us a full bottle! :).  Ok three hundred bucks for a bottle of scotch is still a little out of our range, but when we think of people spending that kind of bread for hooch this is exactly the type of stuff we'd picture them toasting.  It's got us very excited to get our hands on some of the other vintages.  Obviously the '65 would be quite a treat, however we're also keen to review the later vintages.  If the '75 is any indication, this line could find a permanent place on our shelf when we're in the mood to step aside from our standard beasts for some fine dramming with a classy broad like Balblair.

Read the next installment of Disco Drams, 1970's vintage scotch, with Berry Bro's 1974 Glen Grant

/SmokyBeast

"The Fine Line Between Heat and Personal Injury" - An Interview with Chip Tate of Balcones Distilling

June 11, 2013

"The Fine Line Between Heat and Personal Injury" - An Interview with Chip Tate of Balcones Distilling

A Break for Brilliance
We're taking a quick diversion from our birthday-month 1975 vintage bonanza to bring you Part Two of our piece on Balcones Brimstone - an interview with the head distiller of Balcones Distilling - Chip Tate.  We've been craving Brimstone so hard since our original review, that a chance to speak with the brains behind the smoke was something we couldn't pass up.  

Chip at Home (Balcones)
The Caviar of Whiskey

SmokyBeast:    Chip, Brimstone was just an awesome experience!  Thanks for taking some time to talk with SmokyBeast.

Chip Tate:    "Thanks for your support."

SB    So clearly you appreciate a good beast.  We read that you spent some time in Islay.  Was that the inspiration for Brimstone or how did you come up with the concept?

CT    "Yeah well I’ve always liked peated whiskey and there were times when I’d considered doing a peated malt, which I thought would be fun. We moved away from that just because as cool as it is, that’s really a Scottish thing.  The true story about Brimstone is that I was in the backyard by myself for about five hours without kids or anybody, which is kind of a weird thing, so I was just by myself and I started playing with oak and fire and whiskey and the concept was born. Then I figured I’d try the same thing on a bigger scale, in my licensed distillery rather than in the backyard, so I guess you could say that it accidentally became our iconic Texas whiskey."

SB    So you just had some oak sitting around in the yard?

CT    "Yeah I always have some well-cured oak and pecan and different woods because I like to cook a lot. And hence the entry of smoking whiskey, which is dangerous, but I liked what I got and never looked back.  The way I would describe the flavor is kind of like caviar. It’s the finest quality of smoke, only in high quantity. So it’s actually very subtle whiskey I think even though it’s also very powerful. Sometimes you think of those things are mutually exclusive, but I don’t think they are."

The Line Between Enjoyable and Personal Injury 

SB    So we saw beer go through the crazy hop phase with Hop Devil, Hoptical Illusion, Hop Stoopid, and on and on.  Then we saw the peat wars happening in malts with Octomore, Supernova, and Smokehead, etc.  Do you think you're about to set off a contest for the smokiest American whiskey?

CT    "I was a craft brewer for a while and was an out of control home brewer for even longer than that, and one thing I learned is to never let novelty and power be an excuse for a lack of balance. Don’t just see how many hops you can get in a beer because that’s very adolescent. Do it once and get over it and then figure out if you’re going to make a really hoppy beer, how do you make it balanced? Pilsner Urquell is a very hoppy beer, but it doesn’t run over the malt." 

SB    We talk about that balance all the time.  It's why malts like Lagavulin, while not the smokiest, are our favorites.  We noticed it right away in Brimstone.  It's wildly smoky, but very well-balanced.

CT    "Yeah, it’s intriguing to play with something like Brimstone, because it’s in danger of becoming out of balance at every moment.  It’s almost like Indian Curry, the line between enjoyable heat and physical injury is carefully walked on a regular basis. But that just adds more intrigue as long as you don’t actually cross it.  That’s what we’re trying to do: have the smoke, as big a player as it is, be one of several other major players to create that counterpoint and that balance."

Is That Grain You're Smoking?

SB    So how does one smoke a liquid?

CT    "Very carefully.  Smoke is kind of a funny thing. Because we’re smoking the whiskey, there are some aspects of smoke that fade in time and some aspects that get deeper. We’re getting more aspects of the smoke into the whiskey than can be done by smoking grain.  If you’re smoking grain, then it’s whatever dissolves into the mash, comes through the mash into the wash, and then into the spirit. Whereas if you’re actually smoking spirit, it’s a whole different animal."

SB   Let’s talk a little about color.  Brimstone is such a beautiful color and we’ve seen so many older whiskeys that don’t get that gorgeous dark caramel hue.

CT    “Thanks.  So that’s the wood. And it’s because we use only fully yard-aged wood. Most people say ‘oh yeah we yard-age our wood,' and they mean like three, four, or up to six months. They’d be fools not to yard-age it that long because it dries out so quickly. But from that point they kiln it off, dry it out, and make barrels out of it. Now, there’s nothing wrong with using a kiln, it’s just that there are certain things a kiln doesn’t do. When you let wood sit outside, you basically have a controlled rot process going on. The rain is washing off the harsher tannins and really breaking down the structure of the wood." 

A General Dislike of Half-Ass

SB    We're getting the picture that you're very serious about your barrels.

CT    "I’m always pounding the podium about using fully yard-aged wood, fine grain wood, all the things that we do at Balcones. The downside of course is that a new barrel for us costs around $500 versus $75. But to me that’s so important. You have to understand why you’re using a barrel. It’s not just for getting wood color, it’s not just to evaporate the whiskey, it’s not just to put whiskey in contact with charcoal, there’s other ways to do all those things. It’s the oxidation effect. The chemical breathing that happens in and out of the wood. We have a general dislike of half-ass at Balcones. Anything that’s worth doing is worth doing right. If you’re going to take a risk (and whiskey is a risky business), go all in. 

Yeast Are Living Creatures with Rights

SB   That seems to be a common theme across everything you're doing.

CT    "It is.  We use a very nice heirloom blue corn. And it’s expensive, but it’s got a really nice flavor. Most distilleries are fermenting for 48-72 hours. We ferment for a week. The simplest way to put it is ‘yeast are living creatures and when you work them to death they make stinky smells', and we like pretty smells. Most distilleries are doing a very fast fermentation which stresses the yeast and then you have a lot of nasties to deal with."  

SB    So is that the secret of getting the whiskey so smooth without such a long aging process?

CT    "Well let's put it this way, when they do this, they have a choice to make: you can either take a lot of those nasties out in the still, and end up with a much more neutral whiskey; or you can make a rich whiskey and include a lot of those less desirable by-products, and then let them age out. And that’ll work, but to get that smoothness it’ll take 15 or 20 plus years, especially in a cold place like Scotland. And then you lose other possibilities too, since you’re losing some of the malty characteristics as it gets older. And I’m not saying I don’t like scotch whisky. I love Scotch whisky. I guess what I’m saying is I want to have my cake and eat it too. I want a whiskey the doesn’t need to be aged that long but can be aged that long. 

Inside Scoop: Brimstone Resurrection 

SB    So, speaking of aging, can we hope to see a vintage bottling of Brimstone?

CT    "Well we have four casks that we’re going to release this year in celebration of our fifth anniversary. We have a Brimstone in that release which is slightly older. It’s nice and it’s really intense. It’s going to be called Brimstone Resurrection. It’ll be full cask strength, like 64%.

SB   That's awesome, we can't wait to try it.  Hey Chip thanks for your time and thanks for the whiskey!

CT    "You're welcome."



Review: 1975 Glenlossie Blackadder Raw Cask - Disco Drams Part 1

June 7, 2013

Review: 1975 Glenlossie Blackadder Raw Cask - Disco Drams Part 1


Buying Candles in Bulk

It is June, the month of both hubby and wifey's respective births.  We're only two days apart (insert ooh's & aaah's).  Ok well two days plus some years.  And, as wifey's year of birth shall remain confidential, this month we will be sampling some fine selections from hubby's birth year: 1975.  That's right, the big three eight.  Two years left until forty.  Not old, but getting very close to not young.  Time to start buying those birthday candles in bulk.  So get out your bell-bottoms and disco shoes (or in hubby's case your diapers and baby bottles) and get ready for some serious seventies treasure.

Our first groovy dram comes compliments of Ol' Captain Coop.  This time our peg-legged, patched and parroted friend went into the vault for a special birthday gift:  Glenlossie Distillery's 26-Year malt, bottled as part of Blackadder's Raw Cask series.  



Nose:  It only takes one whiff of this 111.2 proof beast to know you'll have to head for some water, and more than our typical three eye dropper's worth.  With a teaspoon full of water, the nose turns into something unique.  The best we can describe it is like a desert oasis.  It starts with salt and sand.  That's really the only way to put it into words.  Dry and crunchy, you can smell the camel hair.  An old burned out jeep with some rust and tire rubber.  The funny thing is that, believe it or not, these are all good things.  It all combines into kind of a perfume-y oily musky fragrance.

Body:  Whoa this is a mighty beast.  We're going back for another splash of water, and then another.  The desert sun and sand stay with us.  It's a fire-breather.  Pretty shocking actually considering twenty six years in the barrel and then thirteen years in the bottle.  There are some faint sweet notes of dessert wine, cream, and lemon.  But this one's tough.  

Finish:  Well we're still tasting it the next morning, so that's some finish.  The Blackadder Raw Cask leaves a huge amount of sediment in each bottle.  It's supposed to preserve the oils in the liquor.  We'll give it that.  It is definitely raw.  

Sediment at the bottom of the Raw Cask bottle

Review:  We're going to save this as an eye-opener on birthday morning.  It's not an every day whisky.  It's not an every week whisky.  It's harsh, abrasive, ballsy, and honestly if we didn't know it was a '75, and we didn't have a label, we'd probably think this was some very young hooch.  Wifey likes her beasts and took to it more than hubby, who was doing his best impression of having just dipped his tongue in raw lemon juice.  Given the good part of a week to open up, and now at about 30% water, we start to see something drinkable here.  There are some dramatic fruits - pineapple, tart lemon, grapefruit.  It's a really strong character.  Not unlike Blackadder himself.  Well we're not likely to see this beast again, so it was quite an experience, and a fun way to start birthday month.  Coming up next week, another groovy beast from 1975.  Stay tuned, and send us some birthday wishes!  



Click here to read the next Disco Drams 1970's vintage whiskey review: Balblair 1975 Bourbon Cask

/SmokyBeast