Parker's Heritage Collection Battle: Blend of Mashbills, Promise of Hope, and Wheat Whiskey

April 29, 2015

Parker's Heritage Collection Battle: Blend of Mashbills, Promise of Hope, and Wheat Whiskey

The Parker's Heritage Collection is a series of annual limited release whiskeys from Heaven Hill. Named after Parker Beam, who has been making whiskey at Heaven Hill for fifty years and is a sixth generation Master Distiller, PHC showcases some of the best casks and small batch whiskies to come from this prolific family and distillery.

We've been lucky enough to try the second PHC release - the 27-year bourbon, which is on our list of the top five bourbons of all time. We also got to try the fourth release - the wheated bourbon, which is an awesome beast in its own right. Last year we had queued up a battle of the sixth and seventh PHC bottles - The Blend of Mashbills, and the Promise of Hope, but we never ended up publishing it. Since the eighth release - the Wheat Whiskey, came out this year we figured we'd go ahead and line up all three.

Parker's Heritage Collection Blend of Mashbills (right) and Promise of Hope (left)

Tasting Notes

PHC 6 Blend of Mashbills 


The "Blend of Mashbills" is a mix of high-rye and wheated bourbons.

Nose:  Equal parts aromatic pipe tobacco, deep autumn fields turning from grass to hay, fresh thyme, and caramel sauce.  Baking chocolate and bitter cherries, very rich nose with deep molasses, smoky bbq meats, lots of char, very thick muscly balls-out nose on this one.

Palate:  First of all, this is an "open-upper". We've been sipping on this over the course of a year and it's changed dramatically.  Once the bottle's been open for about six months it really hits its stride.  At first it's pretty harsh, with the high-rye character sort of wiping out any real trace of the wheated mashbill.  But once a little oxidation happens, the rawness fades into a very rich and drinkable bourbon, and the sweetness of the wheat ingredients become more pronounced.  By our fifth or six try at this over the course of as many months, it's now a real treat.  In the same vein as William Larue Weller (though not quite good honestly).  Layers of anise, cloves, cinnamon, all spice. More caramel, like a scoop of vanilla ice cream dripping with hot caramel sauce.

Finish:  The sweetness and the spice integrate very nicely and the pipe smoke comes back for an earthy deep finish that's quite long for a bourbon.  Very rewarding finish with lingering bbq ribs, birch smoke, and molasses.


PHC 7 Promise of Hope

Promise of Hope was a standard 96 proof single barrel release.  For each bottle sold, $20 would be donated to ALS research.

Nose:  A lot more sweetness on the nose here with candy corn and a hint of ocean boardwalk carnival - salt water taffy, fried dough, and cotton candy.  There's also some saddle leather and still a hint of the farm-ness we got from the full-proof PHC 6.

Palate:  This one drinks like a dream neat, right out of a fresh bottle.  The sweetness continues.  It's still full-bodied, but has a lightness and balance to it that's very pleasant.  There are more fruits coming through in the body - a nice mango salsa floating on top of the spirit spice.

Finish:  Again the faint hint of pipe smoke and old wood on the finish.  Very smooth and just a welcome undercurrent of spirit warmth.


PHC 8 Wheat Whiskey

Heaven Hill also makes Bernheim Wheat Whiskey.  The PHC Wheat Whiskey release is from the very first batch of wheat whiskey created for this brand, now 13 years old.

Nose:  Unlike some of the buttery rich wheated bourbons (see William Larue Weller, Pappy Van Winkle 20-Year), this is a dry cracking nose with punchy wood and crisp profile to it.  Really neat and clean wood with a touch of grain and smoke.

Palate:  While it's quite drinkable for it's hefty 128.6 proof, there's not a lot of depth to this whiskey. Maybe the legend of the wheated bourbon had our sites set too high, but it's not really that complex.

Finish:  Nice crisp punchy finish.  Again very drinkable and very neat for the huge proof, which is no small feat, but nothing to really write home about here.


And the Winner Is...

We're going 6, 8, 7 here.  Once the Blend of Mashbills had a few months to open up in the bottle, it really was a great bourbon.  The Wheat Whiskey is a great drinker, but not quite up to the incredible standards of some of the earlier PHC's.  The Promise of Hope is also a very nice bourbon, though after tasting two cask strength beauties it's hard to square off a standard proof bottle in this lineup.



Beast Masters Club Part Two - Rye Night!

April 21, 2015

Beast Masters Club Part Two - Rye Night!

Twelve men with a continuing mission: To drink our way through the world's best whiskey, four bottles at a time.  I could tell you where and when, but then I'd have to kill you.  But I can let slip a few more of the gory details.


The Beast Masters



Professor Rickhouse, Chief Security Officer
Hometown: Greenwich, CT
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Michter's 10yr










Jew Done Drank Ma Whiskey, Treasurer
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year









Haggis MacTavish
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Lagavulin 16







Seamus O'Schwartz
Hometown: Lawrence, NY
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Black Maple Hill 16 Year








El Diablo
Hometown: Thorpe Bay, UK
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Lagavulin 21 Year









Red Beard
Hometown: Cleveland, OH
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Black Maple Hill 23 Year







Wayne
Hometown: Washington, D.C.
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Macallan 12 Year





The Highway Man
Hometown: Middlebury, VT
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: Woodford Reserve








Captain Sour Mash
Hometown: Atlantic Beach, NY
Poison of Choice: Bourbon
Favorite open bottle: William Larue Weller









Neaty Peaty
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Malt Whisky
Favorite open bottle: Ardbeg








Mr. S. Beast
Hometown: New York, NY
Poison of Choice: Rye
Favorite open bottle: Shhhh.




Tonight's Action

The first Beast Masters Club was all about super aged smoky Islay single malts.  For the sequel, we went all Americano, straight to the heart of Kentucky for RYE NIGHT!



Pieces of History

As with every Beast Masters night, we wanted to sample some pieces of whiskey history.  So we tracked down bottles that descend from some of the legendary shuttered Kentucky distilleries.


The Bottles!!

Sazerac Rye 18-Year Old
(Buffalo Trace Antique Collection)
2013 Release, 45% 90 proof





Alongside the Van Winkle hysteria, Buffalo Trace’s other annual release, The Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (BTAC) has become extremely sought-after and impossible to find. BTAC includes two cask strength bourbons – George T. Stagg and the wheated recipe William Larue Weller, a standard proof Eagle Rare 17-Year Old bourbon, and two ryes: Thomas H. Handy, a cask-strength 9-year old, and perhaps the most limited production of the entire collection with only 20-30 barrels per release: Sazerac Rye 18-Year Old.

All Sazerac 18-year comes from a single distillation that was completed in 1985 (presumably from the Medley Distillery). In 2003, this whiskey was deemed to be the perfect age and was removed from the barrels and inserted into a steel tank to prevent further aging. So while the 2013 release whiskey is actually 28 years old, it was only aged in wood for 18 years.

Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye
13 Years Old, 47.8%, 95.6 proof



The ultimate peak of bourbon/rye insanity, Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye has been virtually impossible to obtain for some years, sparking backroom dealings and illicit black market communities. Rumored to be a blend of Medley and Old Bernheim ryes, the actual source remains unknown.

The Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery has a four generation history. The Van Winkle family’s involvement in the bourbon industry began in the late 1800’s with Julian P. "Pappy" Van Winkle, Sr. He was a traveling salesman for the W.L. Weller and Sons wholesale house in Louisville, traveling around the state by horse and buggy. In May of 1935 at the age of 61, Pappy opened the Stitzel-Weller Distillery in South Louisville. He had a heavy influence on the operations there until his death at the age of 91. His son, Julian, Jr. took over operations until he was forced by stockholders to sell the distillery in 1972. The rights to all of their brands were either sold with the distillery or to other distilleries.

After selling the distillery, Julian, Jr. resurrected a pre-prohibition label, the only one to which the Van Winkles kept the rights, called Old Rip Van Winkle. Julian junior’s son, Julian, III took over in 1981 when Julian, Jr. passed away.


Rittenhouse 23-Year Rye (50%, 100 proof)



Distilled in October 1984 at the Old Heaven Hill Distillery, and bottled in 2007, Rittenhouse 23-Year was a very limited run of 25 barrels. This was one of the last highly-aged ryes to be directly released by Heaven Hill from the remaining stocks before the fire that consumed Old Heaven Hill Distillery.
“Delightful aromas of old leather, library books, pipe tobacco, pineapple, oak resin and trail mix. Palate entry features deep flavors of brown butter, walnut butter and palm oil; midpalate is luscious and resiny with integrated flavors of black pepper, oak and dried fruits. Finish is long, honeyed and treacle-like. Not for the faint of heart. 95 points.” Wine Enthusiast
That the Rittenhouse Very Rare collection ever came to be was a result of serendipity. The original lot of 95 barrels was intended for a private-label customer of Heaven Hill. The company was aging the whiskey for the customer, which failed to call for it until it was far beyond the intended age. When the rye neared the unusual age of 21 years, Heaven Hill approached the whiskey's owner and offered to buy it back. In 2007, it released the Rittenhouse Very Rare 23-Year-Old Straight Rye Whisky. Parker Beam, the Heaven Hill master distiller, says that the whiskey was able to age so long because of its location on the first floor of Rickhouse 00, where the temperatures are lower than on higher floors.

Willett 25-Year Rye (50%, 100 proof)



Only available for a brief time at the Willett Distillery in Bardstown, KY, the Willett 25-Year Rye is one of a kind. It’s some of the last remaining stock of the Old Bernheim Distillery, historic juice that can never be replicated.


Tasting Notes

The Sazerac 18 was a great opener with incredible smoothness greeting vanilla, mint, leather, and oak.  It went down so easy and opened up the palate for some serious rye drinking.  It was quickly overshadowed by the higher proof bottles, but wow so drinkable and a great way to start the evening.

The Van Winkle really took things up a notch.  The spice goes on for miles, it's very ALIVE and doesn't have any signs of over woodiness or over-age.   It's just bursting with spice and also comes forward with some banana and molasses flavors.  What a winner!  No wonder this stuff is kept in an NSA bunker and only released one bottle at a time!

The Rittenhouse - now we're really getting into some interesting territory.  It's a rock-star no doubt.  Better than the Winkle?  The group was totally divided.  The majority of folks thought that it tasted more bourbon-y and less straight rye.  Could this be reflected in the recipe? Maybe a higher corn content?  Unfortunately we couldn't find mashbills for these bottles.  (Anyone out there have more info??)  The Ritt had more chocolate / nougat, where the Winkle was more spice/mint forward.  Just about an even split on the winner here.  

The Willett - The really incredible thing about the Willett is the mouth feel.  Some of the reactions "It's like drinking melted butter"  "Like oak syrup".  It's definitely got an herbal and bitter note at the end of the finish.  Is that a bad thing?  Some would say past its prime.  Personally I love this bottle.  The Willett was definitely the right way to end the tasting as the huge wood and incredibly thick mouth feel make it hard to go back and taste the lighter stuff afterwards.



And The Winner Is?

There was some consensus and a lot of disagreement.  Most thought that the Saz18, while delicious, couldn't really hang with the other three.  The Willett got third place in most of the votes (though I tied it with the VW as my favorite).  And almost a 50/50 split between the Van Winkle and the Rittenhouse.

It was an interesting night.  Many in the group reflected that the ryes were less different from each other than the Islay malts we'd tasted in the previous session.  And this makes perfect sense.  Some of those malts were sherry cask, some weren't, and they had vastly different proofs and levels of peat. This is a theory we've touched on before.  Scotch can have many different ideals (soft and gentle, sweet and punch, smoky, spicy) whereas rye is all pretty much shooting for the same ideal goal.


Then What?

What do you do after drinking four incredible ryes?  Why eat Dinosaur BBQ and drink Sierra Nevada of course!  What the hell else could you do!  :)  

Cheers/SB

Colonel E.H. Taylor Warehouse C Tornado Surviving

April 14, 2015

Colonel E.H. Taylor Warehouse C Tornado Surviving

Half a Million!!!

So we opened up our trusty Blogger console this morning and saw this:


It's truly humbling to think that we've had half a million articles read since we started SmokyBeast two years ago!  Thanks to everyone for their support and love and to all the great people we've met along the way.  To celebrate, we're reviewing a pretty special bottle today, Colonel EH Taylor "Tornado Surviving."

Colonel EH Taylor is great stuff.  Their Single Barrel and Straight Rye are some of the best widely available bourbon's on the market right now.  The Barrel Proof is one of our current favorites.  We actually got to pit it against some 1970's Old Taylor (granted a lower proof version) and it held up remarkably well.

Photo from http://www.longmanandeagle.com/

I Don't Think We're in Kentucky Anymore

For all the redonkulous marketing hype that's going on in the whiskey biz right now, by all accounts the story of Tornado Surviving is legit.  And it's pretty cool...

"On Sunday evening, April 2, 2006, a severe storm with tornado strength winds tore through Central Kentucky, damaging two Buffalo Trace Distillery aging warehouses. One of the damaged warehouses was Warehouse C, a treasured warehouse on property, built by Colonel Edmund Haynes Taylor, Jr. in 1881. It sustained significant damage to its roof and north brick wall, exposing a group of aging bourbon barrels to the elements. That summer, the exposed barrels waited patiently while the roof and walls were repaired, meanwhile being exposed to the Central Kentucky climate. When these barrels were tasted years later, it was discovered that the sun, wind, and elements they had experienced created a bourbon rich in flavors that was unmatched. This was truly a special batch of barrels, and though the Distillery does not hope for another tornado, it feels lucky to have been able to release this once in a lifetime product."

Tasting Notes

Nose:  Wow that's a really badass nose.  Lots of wood, vanilla, leather, cinnamon sugar, nutmeg.  It's a total winner.  Love it.

Palate:  The dry punchy woody nose turns into a sweet taste with honey, nougat, chocolate covered cherries, and little explosions of oranges, peaches, and tangerines.

Finish:  The finish may be the weakest part of this bourbon since there's a little bit of overripe peach going on.  But this is a minor criticism.  It still stays with the awesome wood, sweetness, and richness, if slanting a bit towards overly sweet at the end.

Review:  We've heard a lot of people talk about how overrated this stuff is and we couldn't disagree more.  It's straight up awesome.  Maybe not in the same league as some of the ultimate beasts of all time (Old Pappy 20, BMH 14, Parkers 27), but it's way up there in terms of most of the bourbon we've tried.  Extremely good.


That's all for now, we're finally getting some real spring weather here in NYC, so you'll find us outside enjoying some great whiskey in front of a long sunset with friends.  Look us up if you're in town!!








Review: Kilchoman PX Finish

April 7, 2015

Review: Kilchoman PX Finish

We have a thing for Kilchoman.  Besides being the first new Islay distillery in a hundred and fifty years, they've been doing really interesting things with young peaty malts.  We brought a bottle of Machir Bay to a party last week and it was a huge hit.  People who had never tried Kilchoman before became fans, and even some folks who weren't fans of peated whisky got into it.  The most common reaction was that the smoke was so prevalent on the nose, but then the malt was so smooth, that they were presently surprised.

So when Impex announced that they were releasing a Pedro Ximenez sherry finished Kilchoman, we got excited.  From Lagavulin to Laphroaig to Benriach, you rarely go wrong combining a heavily peated scotch with finishing in a PX barrel.  The sweet raisin-y richness of the sherry barrel brings out something special in the smoldering peat of the whisky.  We got a sample from Impex and poured it next to their single cask sherry matured release which was already a favorite.




Kilchoman PX Finish Single Cask 118.4 proof

Nose: Heavy heavy butterscotch.  There's some phenol/rubber peat mixing in with a cake-y syrupy sweetness.  Lemon cake and olive oil.  White grapes and apples come out at the end.

Palate: Wow kind of a burner here.  Sort of the opposite of what we've come to expect from Kilchoman, the nose is super smooth and the palate is hot and spicy with tons of smoke.

Finish: Very rough on the throat.  Hate to say it but this one is just not working for us.  The elements aren't really coming together here.  On paper it's got all the things we like: Kilchoman's peaty young fiery malt with PX finish at cask strength.  But it's sort of like all the worst qualities of all these things.  Not much of the classic Kilchoman white chocolate smoothness, with a really harsh ashtray peat thing going on, and the sherry influence is very sweet but kind of floating over the peat and disconnected.  Perhaps this was a quick sherry finish that didn't have time to integrate with the malt?  Unclear but this one's a pass.


Kilchoman Sherry Finish Single Cask 115.8 Proof

Nose: More in the pocket here with grassy farmy herbals, lots of smoke, some of those roasted nuts, chocolate and nougat. 

Palate: Definitely digging the straight sherry finish.  Very smooth with some nice red grapes, ripe fall fruits, and little pops of hot spicy chiles.  

Finish: Nice, long, and incredibly drinkable at cask strength.  Like most of the Kilchoman single casks we've tried, this is a real treat.  Definitely one to check out.


Conclusions

Ok so... weird... we really didn't dig the PX.  Maybe it's an age thing, most of the PX cask whiskies we've tried have been much older.  Maybe it takes some time for that pairing to work.  In any case, if you still haven't tried Kilchoman you definitely need to dive in.  The Machir Bay or the 100% Islay (home grown, "farm-to-bottle" barley grown right on Islay!) are awesome places to start.  The Loch Gorm sherry finish is delicious, and if you can find some of the cask strength single barrels definitely pick one up.  Maybe skip the PX finish, kind of disappointing, but grab the straight sherry finish and enjoy.  The perfect young malt for a chilly spring evening to enjoy with old friends.  

Cheers/SB