Battle of the Beasts Part 1: Lagavulin 12-Year

May 30, 2014

Battle of the Beasts Part 1: Lagavulin 12-Year



Battle of the Beasts Part 1

Yesterday we kicked off our Battle of the Beasts showdown between our favorite big bad peaty malts.  For the next four days we'll be reviewing each of the selections, and then for the finale we'll show the votes of how they all stacked up on taste and smokiness.  

Contender #1: Lagavulin 12- Year



Tasting notes

Nose: Smoke floats right to the top.  It's a very fresh peat smoke, like taking pounds of the dark damp vegetal stuff and throwing it on smoldering campfire stones.  Once the peat has singed your nose and you've adjusted your internal peat-ometer accordingly, some of the other aromas start to come through.  cocoa beans, vanilla cream, sugared lemons, sea air, peanut butter, some medicinal / phenol angles on the peat, green grapes or apples, and some fresh green leaves (jade?).

Palate:  What a body on this one!  It's thick and oily and creamy.  Just absolutely lovely, waking up far corners of the taste buds with heavy cream, sweet lemon meringue pie, lots of spirit warmth, some old leather, wood, and nuts.

Finish:  Wow, what a magnificent beast.  The smoke comes right at the throat in the finish but it balances out against the high alcohol content wonderfully.  It then just rests right there under your soft palate smoldering for several minutes before turning into a little eau de cologne hovering on your breath.

We've really come full circle on this one.  We weren't prepared for it the first time, but now we're old friends and this is a definite favorite!


Guest Judge Comments

"Pale citrus, rich peat, lemon, creamy.  Kilchoman?"
"Vanilla, ginger, smoke."
"Nose: Vegetal, grilled peppers and zucchini, agave. Reminds me of a reposado tequila or mezcal.  Palate- viscous, lots of heat, peppery spice, intense.  Finish - intense up front, lots of mint then smoke developed as it wound down.  Honestly with the nose, body and flavor if no one told me what it was I'd think I'd have a really interesting & solid tequila."

-- We gave it another sniff and it definitely does have that agave / tequila thing going on.  Would never have thought of that but it's true!
Battle of the Beasts!!!

May 29, 2014

Battle of the Beasts!!!


Day of Reckoning!

Ever since we started SmokyBeast, we knew that one day it would come to this.  It's been a long time in the making, but the day is finally here.  We're going to line up our favorite smoky beasts: the peatiest, smokiest, and most delicious drams we've ever had, and put them up blind for the ultimate battle of the beasts.  Mano a mano.  Six-shooters at high noon.  We're going to find out once and for all which is the baddest beast in the land.

Contenders


In the middle, two of the smokiest malts ever produced: Ardbeg Supernova and Bruichladdich Octomore!  And for the bookends, two of our favorite big smoky beauties: Lagavulin 12-Year Cask Strength, and Kilchoman Cask Strength Sherry Cask.

Lagavulin:  Limited Edition 12 Year Natural Cask Strength, Distilled in 2001, Bottled in 2013, 55.1%
Lagavulin is our first and still favorite malt.  The 12-year is a mighty beast.  It was one of the early malts that we reviewed on this blog and honestly it was too much for us the first time around.  Since then it's become well-loved here at Beast Headquarters.  Though the peat levels are supposed to be less than half (perhaps a third) of some of the other beasts in the lineup, it wouldn't be a proper Islay battle without a Lag in the mix!

Ardbeg: Supernova SN2010 60.1%
Peated to "over 100 parts per million," Ardbeg Supernova is one of the mythical beasts of Islay.  It was first released in 2009 and sold out in a matter of days.  The 2010 release was even more sought-after and is highly coveted by smoke heads worldwide.  This is known to be one of the all-time smokiest beasts in the land and certainly earns a spot in our battle.

Bruichladdich: Octomore 2.1 62.5%
Being the smokiest scotch ever created, Octomore is the highest handicap in our smoke race.  Yes, the Octomore 5.1 is technically the peatiest monster ever at 169ppm.  We'll have to track down a bottle one day.  For now, the 2.1 is still some vicious hell-raising, slap-your-ass-and-call-you-Sally hooch at 140ppm.  Beaming down from its badass black bottle, this is one serious beast!

Kilchoman: 2007 Sherry Cask 3010 Barrel Room Option for Fountainhead
We thought about putting the obvious choice - a young Laphroaig - into the mix here, but instead we went with our newest favorite, the single sherry cask from Kilchoman.  Since this is a blind tasting, we thought we'd throw in a wild card for our judges.  As the lowest peat-level in the bunch, and the only sherry cask, it will be interesting to see the balance of picks for taste and smokiness.


The Judges

Mrs. Smoky Beast
Since Mr. Beast nobly sacrificed his seat in the name of science, Mrs. Beast is representing the blog in the blind tasting.  A true peat-head to the core, this wifey is ready for battle.

Guest Judge #1: Benny Wolowitz
Born and raised in Miami, with a brief exile into the smokey mountains, Ben is a happily married, overly read, usually bearded booze geek who went from the book biz to indulging a preference for whiskey of all sorts by selling liquor for a very large wine and spirits retailer.

Guest Judge #2: Joshua Gershon-Feldman
Known by his many aliases: Dr. Pre-Pro, Captain Coop, The Sherpas' Sherpa, SmokyBeast Director of Security, Joshua has poured over many many drams in his review for Coopered Tot and is a true beast-lover.

Guest Judge #3: Bram Hoogendijk
"Our man in Amsterdam," the official Managing Editor of the SmokyBeast Northern European Desk, malt whiskey aficionado extraordinaire, Bram flew all the way from Holland to partake in our ultimate battle of the beasts!

Format

A fiercely scientific tredecuple blind tasting. Four glasses, four drams.

The Tasting (obviously the bottles were concealed until the end...)

The Tasting Sheet



Tune in tomorrow as the games begin!!!


Review: High West 21-Year Rye - Rocky Mountain Smooth

May 22, 2014

Review: High West 21-Year Rye - Rocky Mountain Smooth

When a Rye Is Not a Rye...

As we've talked about before, there are some very specific regulations for what constitutes straight rye whiskey.  One of those regulations is that it must be aged in new charred oak barrels.  Since their 21-year is aged in used oak barrels, High West is very careful not to call it a rye.  Instead it's labelled "whiskey distilled from rye mash" with the subtitle "stored 21 years in reused cooperage".  Interesting... 

Origins

According to their website, High West was started in 2004.  This means that if this whiskey was aged the whole 21 years in reused cooperage, then it wasn't High West's decision to barrel it this way.  More likely this whiskey was never intended to be sold as a rye.  It was probably destined for a blend, which explains why the standards for straight rye weren't observed.  This doesn't take anything away from the whiskey.  Many great single barrels were rescued from distilleries that predominantly produced whiskey for blends.  Nonetheless it's interesting.  We know that High West has sourced whiskey from Four Roses, LDI, and Barton.  It's unlikely that they could have obtained a barrel of 53% rye from Four Roses, and it seems more likely that they could find a barrel this old from Barton than LDI, so that's our guess.  Barton produced a wide range of blended American and Canadian whiskeys, so that makes sense with this story as well.  




Tasting Notes

Nose:  We wouldn't blink if you told us this was a highland malt.  It's got a lot of that furniture polish scent that speaks to an old unpeated scotch.  Perhaps that's the cooperage since it's aged in used oak barrels rather than new charred oak.  It's lacking all the big rich vanilla, molasses, and spice that we think of in a classic American rye.  There's some sweetness, maybe a little peach and white chocolate, some mint, and a lot of perfumy, musky stuff going on.

Palate:  Well at least we can tell it's a rye in the taste, certainly not a malt.  The spice and the cracking wheat come into play.  There's some chiles, a nice mellow corn, medium body, and some nutmeg.

Finish:  It's smooth as hell, which it should be at 46% and 21-years old.  The finish is brief, well balanced but unremarkable.

Review:  Considering how hard this bottle is to find, we were hoping for something really over the top special.  This one is smooth, that's for sure.  There's nothing *wrong* with it.  But it just doesn't really float our boat.  Compared to other epic ryes like Rittenhouse 21, Willett 25, or the old bottles of Michter's 10-Year, this just doesn't have a lot of flavor.  It's not a beast, that's for sure.  Maybe it's predisposition, but it almost drinks like a blended whiskey.  Very smooth, nice balance, but not the kind of big flavor bomb that we've come to know and love from our favorite ryes.  It's hard to tell if it's the low proof or the used barrels or just the original source, but there's something missing here.

Since this is certainly 'a hunter', you might well want to pick one up if you find one in the wild, but we honestly we wouldn't hunt too hard for it.

A Crazy Frankenstein Remix...

Ok, so High West 21 had grace and finesse, but something of a lack of balls.  If you are a devoted SmokyBeast reader, you may remember a fairly recent review where we found a whiskey with too much kick, maybe just a little heavy in the balls department.  Ok so we came up with a crazy idea.


Right, so two of our not-so-favorite whiskies.  Stagg Jr, which we really just didn't enjoy at all - freakishly hot, burny, like magic markers on crack.  And High West 21 - which for the record we have WAY more respect for than Stagg Jr. - it's a delicate and sublime lady, just not quite the flavor bomb we look for in a rye.  Could it be...  put together...  synergy?

Frankenstein Vatting Tasting Notes

Nose:  You know what?  The FrankenVat has vanilla, molasses, dark oak aromas are back!  We didn't love the Stagg Jr. nose, but combined with the super-mellow High West, this has a really awesome big sweet nose that also has those elements of age.  Not bad so far...

Palate:  Well... um...  this is pretty much the good stuff.  Ok granted at this point we've had a couple of glasses of the straight 21 year, as well as little belt of the Stagg Jr straight to jog the memory (after 6 months it still wasn't *good* but it was a lot more drinkable than at first sip), so we're not exactly pristine in the palate / taste memory category, but still this is good stuff.  It's got the sweets - cocoa, vanilla, baking goods; and the warmth - old leather, wood, furniture polish.  It's sort of got it all.

Finish:  And it's got a mile long awesome warm finish.  No doubt due to the rocket fuel that is Stagg Jr, but still retaining a bit of the class of the HW 21.

A little bit of mad science pays off sometimes!  Cheers/SB
Creative Whisky Company 2014 Exclusive Malts - A Cask Strength Tasting

May 15, 2014

Creative Whisky Company 2014 Exclusive Malts - A Cask Strength Tasting

Creative Whisky Company is an interesting outfit.  It's headed up by David Stirk, who spend two decades covering malts for Whisky Magazine and writing his own whisky guidebooks.  In 2005 David decided to open his own bottling company and began selecting casks for aging and retail.

The Exclusive Malts are hand selected by David, aged in a single cask, and bottled at cask strength, with no artificial color.  So far, so good.  We're listening.  It also helps that several bottles in the lineup are over twenty years old!  Ok on to the whiskies, let's see what Dave's serving up this year...

Exclusive Malts Bladnoch 1992 21 Year (96.2 proof)

Nose: Perfumy nose of rich florals: lilies and lilacs - and ripe stone fruits: over-sweet apricots & nectarines.  It all combines for a fancy spray-bottle of Chanel #5.

Palate:  A lot of white wine characteristics in this malt - green grapes and honey, some little notes of rock salt / sea salt, wedding cake, and peanuts.

Finish:  Very balanced.  Absolutely no alcohol burn.  Not a ton of balls on this one, but that seems to be the idea.  This would be a perfect introductory scotch for a white wine drinker.  It's incredibly smooth without being too sweet and still retaining a nice flavor profile.  It would go fantastically with a light seafood dinner, or some light fruity desserts.  Very nice dram.

Exclusive Malts Glencadam 1991 22 Year (100.2 proof)




Nose:  This one's a really nice heavy white oak on the nose.  Then we get a little silly putty / aloe flavor, a hint of leather polish, and it winds up on a hefty dose of high test apple cider.

Palate:  The tongue moves in a direction more towards spice with some cloves, nutmeg, and pink peppercorns.  The palate honestly does not have the tenacity of the nose, but on the other hand it's a very very drinkable scotch at a hundred proof.

Finish:  The finish is very creamy with maybe some little hints of strawberries or other seedy fruits.  Again there's absolutely no burn here, which is very nice at over a hundred proof.  This is definitely a dangerous dram, much smoother than any blend, but deceivingly higher test.  Another light, floral, dessert-y dram that would go perfectly with chocolate moose or strawberries and cream.

Exclusive Malts Linkwood 1999 14 Year (111.6 proof)




Nose: We're back in the highly perfumy, apple cider, eau de cologne neighborhood here with some grassy / farmy elements as well.

Palate:  Mmm, but in this case (opposite from the Glencadam) the tongue comes out with a lot more punch than the nose.  There's a hint of smoke, some rich roasted nuts, some sea air, a little more chewiness/body, and some definite spice with a little prick of habanero or cayenne.

Finish:  A nice long finish here with a little welcome spirit warmth.  Smoke comes to the front (not peaty but a smoldering oceanside fire).  There's some melting sugar about to turn into caramel, and maybe some burned butter, like those mexican charred corn on the cobs you get at street fairs.  Very very nice finish long in the sweet balanced delicately with smoke and wood.

This is our favorite so far.  A nice rich malt with a little smoke, nice body, not shying away from the taste of the spirit, but still wickedly smooth up at over 110 proof!  Pick this one up if you see it for sure!

Exclusive Malts "North Highland" 1996 17 Year (112.2 proof)




Nose:  The first dose of sherry so far, with the color to back it up.  However this nose is sharp and has a little of that magic marker / white out quality to it.  Not our favorite so far in terms of the smell.

Adding water:  This one begs for water, and takes it well.  The nose opens up and turns into a very nutty, nougat, goodness - chocolate covered cherries!

Palate:  It's rich, it's got some red grapes, and some whipped cream, and some little pangs of spice.

Finish:  Medium finish with more red fruits, sweet grapes, and sherried oak.  It's just not our favorite.  We love sherry against peat, but without the peat it just seems to magnify the tang of the alcohol instead of balancing it out.  Probably should have tasted this one before the Linkwood, because once we got a taste of smoke it was tough.  There's nothing technically wrong with this.  It's a nice big cask strength highland malt, and if that's your cup of tea, you're not going to find a lot of seventeen year old cask strength malts these days, so go for it.

Exclusive Malts Bowmore 2001 12 Year (116.8 proof)





Nose:  Ok, our first Islay and coming in at a whopping 116.8 proof!  We're excited.  The nose comes in peaty, but not blow-your-mind peaty.  It's a Bowmore after all and is still reserved next to it's neighbors from the south: Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig.  It's got the peat, and some sherry in the nose.  There's a little rubberiness, we're sort of ambivalent on the nose here.  Let's take a sip.

Palate:  Ok now we're sold.  It's a solid peat and sherry balance, with some nice sea brine, healthy salt, a very nice smoke, and good spirit flavor.  Awesome smoothness and balance at this monster proof.  It merits only a drop of water and with this infusion turns into a gem, very drinkable without losing flavor.  Peat floating on top of grapes, wood, and leather.

Finish:  A proper long finish typical of an Islay, and a cask strength one at that.  This one is like Lagavulin 12-year, but with a lot more finesse, less smoke, and more drinkability.  Both are killer, and we will always love the Lag, but many may find this bottle preferable.  A beast that can be enjoyed by all, not just die-hard smoke hunters.

Conclusions

This is a really nice line and will generally be a happy pickup as well as a pretty good collectors' item given the small production run.  The Bladnoch and Glencadam are very refined ladies that will be well-loved by folks who tend towards Tullibardine, Scapa, and Balblair.  For us, the Linkwood and the Bowmore were the winners.  Lovely smoke, cask strength goodness, great balance, wonderful cask selection, and a good pure non-colored malt.  Good job by David and Creative Whiskey.  A fun tasting.  Keep putting out these nice selections of cask strength whisky!

Cheers/SB







Pilgrimage to Bourbon Country Part 3: The Bourbon & Bonsai Tasting with Doug Phillips

May 6, 2014

Pilgrimage to Bourbon Country Part 3: The Bourbon & Bonsai Tasting with Doug Phillips

Well if you've read the blog over the past couple of weeks, you know that our tour of bourbon country in Kentucky was off to a pretty phenomenal start.  We'd visited Four Roses to see where all of Jim Rutledge's magic happens.  Then we got a private tour of Willett Distillery by Master Distiller Drew Kulsveen, who drilled into some barrels of their new bourbon and rye for us to taste the first original Willett-produced whiskey since the 1970's!  

It was shaping up to be a great day.  But as the sun started to fade, our journey through the whiskey motherland was just heating up.  As we mentioned last week, in recent history Willett has been known as one of the top NDPs - non-distiller producers.  Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (KBD) would purchase stocks of whiskey from many different distilleries, age them, and then release them at their peak.  Willett released whiskey directly to distributors and retailers, but they also had a very famous private barrel program.  

Liquor stores and bars could visit the troves of barrels in Willett's rickhouses and choose one to feature as their own private barrel.  Picking barrels of Willett became something of an art form, and some of the most sought after ryes in the world came out of this program.  The Seelbach Hotel in Louisville chose the now infamous Rathskeller Rye.  LeNell's liquor store in Brooklyn released Red Hook Rye which is now one of the most collectible American whiskies. Joe Reilly from Ace Liquors in Washington D.C. brought forth the mythical "Iron Fist" and "Velvet Glove" Willetts.  

Another legend of barrel picking is Doug Phillips.  Doug's Willett picks are the types of bottles that whiskey collectors drool over and feature as the crown jewels in their display shelves.  We had asked Doug if he'd like to chat with us about whiskey.  He agreed, but only on the condition that we visit his home, sit out on the deck, and dram together.  It was tough, but eventually he convinced us to say yes.  Doug lives not too far from Willett and has a beautiful place out in the country.  We rolled in just before dusk and started with a tour of the property (a whiskey-in-hand tour of course!).   

Doug's Pond
Lumber shed
Outhouse (we just really liked this photo...)

Doug is a fascinating guy.  He is a glazier, glass sandblaster and contractor by trade and actually helped to build the new Willett distillery.  He's also into bonsai trees...


Bonsai!!!
 Here's Doug at his dock appropriately enjoying an old Willett.

Doug
A curious eye and the right questions revealed some very interesting little facts.  Like these seemingly insignificant piles of bricks were actually salvaged from the old Heaven Hill Distillery which burned down in 1996.  That's the same distillery where many of those historic Willett's originated.

Fire-Surviving Heaven Hill Bricks
 We sat out on the deck and Doug started chopping wood for the barbecue.  "You need a lot of different kinds of wood for a good cooking fire," Doug says as he splits logs of cherry, hickory, white oak, maple and walnut. The neighbor's German shepherd comes sniffing around when he smells the fire start.  We're drinking old rye and Sierra Nevada Torpedo and eating chicken livers hot off the grill as an appetizer.  After a long day driving and walking around it doesn't get much better.  Until after dinner that is...

Some of Doug's picks

The bbq chicken and fresh cole slaw were outstanding, and it was time to get into some whiskey.  Doug pulls out a few of his favorite Willetts.  The 800 series bourbon barrels are wildly popular and we were lucky enough to try three of them.





They're brothers, all sharing a big vanilla, toffee, and spice flavor profile though each one has its own little distinctive characteristics.  These are amazing whiskies: big, cask strength, rich and ballsy bourbons.

"I came down to Kentucky to buy a barrel, but no one was interested in selling me one the way I wanted it." Doug explains, "Then I talked to Drew [Kulsveen] and said 'Hey if I wanted a barrel done at cask strength with no chill-filtering, would you do that?'  He just looked at me and said 'Ah... yeah, of course!'"  

We went through a bunch of other great whiskies and we're not going to try to list all of them.  Suffice it to say that Doug picks great barrels.  Smooth Ambler is one of his current favorites.  But then as we made our way through the cabinet, he pulled out something extra special.


"Dug'z" 17-Year Bourbon


The 17 year "Dug'z & Willy'z" Willett is the most unforgettable of the night.  It's a classic big boy on the nose, lots of baking spice and cocoa.  It's a nice oily thickness on the palate with lots of wood and some of that old leather we look for in a nice mature whiskey.  But the finish is what makes it so incredibly distinctive.  Right at the end there's a...  funk.  There's no other way to describe it.  It's a skunky funky herbal finish that floats right out on top of the tongue.  Very enjoyable and so unique that there's no doubt we could pick this one out blind among a dozen other beasts without any trouble at all.

The night moves on and we taste a lot of whiskey.  There was an awesome 9 year old bourbon from the now closed Deatsville Distillery.  We drank some things that weren't even in official bottles, real private stash type stuff. There's a rye that Doug has finished in barrels that previously held peated single malt whiskey.  Really wacky in a good way...  We start talking about single malts.  Doug, like ourselves, discovered great whiskey through scotch before he developed a taste for bourbon and rye.  We let on that our favorites are Lagavulin and Talisker.  With a glimmer in his eye, Doug makes a b-line to the malt cabinet and withdraws two incredible gems to top off the evening.

"You can't be a Lagavulin fan and not try the White Horse," Doug says.  Indeed, we've been wanting to taste one of the Lagavulin White Horse bottles for ages.


The White Horse Lagavulin is absolutely stunning.  Despite it being bottled in the early 90's, it tastes fresher than the Lag 16 they're putting out today.  The smoke is really tight and refined and layered in with the warmth and wood and slight sherry notes.  It's a subtle difference but very noticeable.  Really nice stuff.  

Doug's got one final trick up his sleeve when it is revealed that Hubby loves Talisker and was born in 1975.  Care to guess?  Yup a 1975 Talisker.  One of the original 25-Year Limited Edition bottles.  It's sealed, but Doug insists that we crack it and drink it to the shoulder before calling it a night.






The Tali is a complete gem.  We reviewed one of the current release Tali 25 year bottles early on in the blog.  It was good stuff, no doubt.  But nowadays they have dropped the proof down considerably.  Back then it was cask strength - 59.9% in this case.  The extra proof makes it a 'no contest' against the current release.  It's extremely smooth and drinkable for the proof with all that wonderful Talisker ocean brine and sea air, smoldering smoky rocks, huge peat, and just an incredible balance.  Absolutely everything you want in a Talisker.  

Doug was a phenomenal host and shared a tremendous amount of whiskey knowledge, not to mention a top-notch tasting!  If you're lucky enough to try one of Doug's barrel picks, you'll be in for a treat.  And spending an evening watching the light fade over bbq, beer, and whiskey was the perfect way to end an unbelievable day in Kentucky.  

Until next time.  /SmokyBeast