Review: Willett Family Estate 4-Year Single Barrel Rye - Rye Beastie of the Year!!

September 26, 2013

Review: Willett Family Estate 4-Year Single Barrel Rye - Rye Beastie of the Year!!

Sometimes You're Just Smitten

We firmly believe that everyone will find that special someone.  The soul mate, the everyday best friend, the Friday night in pajamas watching 'Chopped' on the Food Network type of love.  The same is true for Whiskey.  There are the special occasion bottles like Pappy and Port Ellen.  There are impossible to find gems like AH Hirsch that you pine away your entire life dreaming about.  Then there are simple everyday rock stars.  When you find one of those, you smile, because you know that you can pick up a few bottles, share it with friends, and know that you can always come home to a great drink.  For richer of poorer, watching the years pass, growing old together, yada yada.


Willett Family Estate

Sketch of Historical Willett Distillery
http://www.kentuckybourbonwhiskey.com
The Willett family historically was one of the preeminent whiskey producers in the country, operating from the mid eighteen-hundreds up until the 1970's.  When they stopped making whiskey in the 70's they became one of the largest independent bottlers in the country, Kentucky Bourbon Distillers.  Heaven Hill is located right across the street from KBD and is generally known to produce the majority of their stock.  KBD does have other sources though, historically among them barrels from the old Stitzel-Weller Distillery (the holy grail of shuttered whiskey makers).  KBD makes brands such as Johnny Drum, Old Bardstown, Kentucky Vintage, Noah's Mill, Rowan's Creek, Black Maple Hill, Michter's, and Old Pogue.  We're huge fans of Michter's, and some of these other brands are nothing to sneeze at, but Willett Family Estate is really the cream of the crop when it comes to KBD.  It's the flagship product blessed with the original family name and crest to boot.  The Willett family has now reclaimed the original site and begun to distill genuine 100% Willett whiskey as of 2012.  We're looking forward to tasting the results once it's had time to age and end up in a bottle.
Willett Distillery today

The Willett Family Estate line all contain age statements and barrel numbers, which is awesome.  They also produce no-age-statement Willett Pot Still which comes in a clear glass bottle that looks like a still.  The Pot Still is a decent drinking whiskey in its own right (it also comes in a giant 1.5L bottle which looks great on your bar), and very widely accessible, however the WFE brings it to another level.  WFE includes bourbon and rye in ages from 4-years for rye and 6-years for bourbon all the way up to 21-years, and in some very limited batches even older.  Truth be told we have one bottle of Willett 21-Year (said to be the last of the SW stock) sealed in the vault at SmokyBeast Headquarters (yes it's an Ikea cabinet) awaiting a special occasion, so stay tuned for that review. But for today we're focused on the Willett Family Estate 4-Year Rye.

Tasting Notes


Appearance:  Sexy.  In the bottle and in the glass.  Refined, upscale sexy.

Nose:  Huge vanilla.  Nougat, chocolate, and deep crisp dark rye.  Then the spices: anise, clove, cinnamon stick, pepper.  Finally - a little whiff of...  Bazooka Joe bubble gum?  Something like that, very sweet, sugary candy.

Body:  So clean and delicious.  The sweetness comes back with a little bit of caramel popcorn.  The rye grains are so compact and punchy, it's a great balance of sweet vanilla candy and crisp dry grain.  There's also a hint of that oiled leather, old wood taste that you get from much older whiskies floating in there.

Finish:  A very long and lovely finish for a rye.  There's a hint of char/smoke, some welcome spirit warmth, and more of the rich vanilla.  Early in the bottle we preferred a few drops of water, once it had a few weeks to open up, we preferred it straight (this is common with Willetts, open the bottle as soon as you get it and let it sit for a couple of weeks, you'll be delighted).

Rye Beastie of the Year

Willett is a damn tasty rye.  It's got a ton of body, but it's also very smooth and drinkable.  There's just something about the balance of flavor that elevates it to a level above much of the rye we've tasted this year.  It's 110 proof, which is an awesome alcohol content (read: one glass of this and you're well on your way), and perfectly in the pocket flavor-wise.  But the kicker is that for a young, four year whiskey, it's incredibly smooth without sacrificing bold flavor.  

And here it is for only $75.  Just kidding, it's $39.99 from our friends at DrinkUpNY!!  A better quality at this price you will never find.  We're almost tempted not to announce how good this stuff is and just buy a few cases for ourselves while the supplies last.  But seriously you can't go wrong.  At under $40 it's a SmokyBeast "A".  Pick up a few if you're in the mood.  It's a very classy bottle and will make a perfect gift for the holidays, but we have a feeling that once you try a sip you will be keeping them for yourself.  You'll be kicking off your shoes, firing up cable television, and settling down with your new sweetheart before you know it.

Cheers!  /SB



P.S. Don't miss our discount tickets to Whiskey Jewbilee which is fast approaching in the second week of October.  They have an impressive lineup of tastings planned and it will be a great way to start off the holiday weekend. We'll be doing an interview with the founder Joshua Hatton next week. For now click here to get 10% off:

Jewbilee Mt Kisco October 9th: https://whiskyjewbilee.ticketbud.com/mt-kisco?pc=beasty13

Jewbilee NYC October 10th: https://whiskyjewbilee.ticketbud.com/nycity?pc=beasty13



*** Exclusive Review: 2013 Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year   ---   The Prime Time Beast!!! ***

September 18, 2013

*** Exclusive Review: 2013 Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year --- The Prime Time Beast!!! ***

Pappy is in the House

Ok whiskey world, get ready to pitch your tents, change your diapers, and drain your bank accounts.  Bourbon season is officially upon us.  The next generation of the hottest bourbon of the decade is about to hit the shelves and your trusty pals at SmokyBeast have an exclusive sneak peak!

Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 20 Year, 2013 Edition

Friends in High Places (mountains as a matter of fact)

Where did we score this prime time beast?  Actually our new best buddy Anthony over at Pour Mt Kisco broke it out as a special surprise after our magnificent antique rye tasting from Beast Masters Volume 2.  It's here!  Yeeeee-haw.  Queue appropriate Honky-Tonk banjo soundtrack =>







Serial Number: B1305911:00M 
The Codes & Keys

How did we determine that this was in fact the newest, 2013 Pappy?  It's sometimes tough to see the serial number on these bottles so we ad-libbed with a flashlight and some creative photography.  You can see that it starts with a 13.  This indicates that it was bottled in 2013.  Exclusive sneak peak confirmed!!!  The next three numbers indicate the day of the year.  This was bottled on the fifty-ninth day of the year, in other words February 28th.  Presumably at 11:00am.  These bottles will be hitting the shelves soon, so get out your safari hats and let the hunt begin...



Update 9/19: Some helpful folks from the internet have doubted the accuracy of our most awesome sneak peak at this 2013 Pappy.  For reference, here is a note Anthony got directly from Mr Van Winkle himself attesting to it's authenticity.  It's actually referencing a second bottle with a similar code, but you'll see the idea.  (this is what we in  the industry call "breaking out the big guns")

Anthony,

B= Bottled at Buffalo Trace
13=bottled in 2013
059= the Julian calendar date of bottling
10:52= bottled at 10:52am
M= M bottling line at Buffalo Trace
Please let me know if you have further questions.

Cheers,

J. Preston Van Winkle
Marketing Manager
Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery
"…But Always Fine Bourbon."


Invasion of the Buffalo

Last week we went through a bit of history along with a top notch tasting of early 2000's Van Winkles.  We mentioned the fact that the Stitzel-Weller distillery closed in 1992 and Julian Van Winkle III contracted with Buffalo Trace to continue to produce bourbon for the Van Winkle brand.  Since the early 2000's, Pappy bottles have begun to mix Buffalo Trace and Stitzel Weller barrels.  2012, however, was the last year that any 20-year old Stitzel Weller bourbon existed.  That makes 2013 the first year that Pappy 20-Year is 100% Buffalo Trace bourbon.  Many are curious, will it measure up?  Will the flavor be the same?  Can the torch be passed?  Will the invasion of the buffalo conquer our cigar-smoking hero, or will the spirit of Pappy prevail??  As of today, only SmokyBeast can tell you, so let's get down to some drinking!

Tasting Notes

Nose:  Very rustic farm-y elements going on here.  It's got all the requisite big bourbon Pappy trademarks: vanilla, cocoa, buttery caramel, plums and raisins, coffee.  But there's also a musky grassy wheaty fresh character to it.

Body:  Big wood on the body.  Some dry cracking oak.  Also some lighter fruits coming out.  "Apple pie and candy apples!" says Josh Feldman of The Coopered Tot who joined us for the tasting.  It's a very tight and balanced body with *lots* of oak, wood oil, and sweet punchy fruits.

Finish:  It all comes down to the finish, and the new sauce definitely does not disappoint.  It's medium-length, no alcohol burn, and the pleasing spirit warmth floats perfectly on the rich woods.

Head-to-Head

Just to be sure (we're never ones to be less than thorough when it comes to whiskey), we ordered up a flight of the 2012 Pappy's that happened to be on tap at Pour.  We sipped the 2013 20-Year against each of the 2012 15-Year, 20-Year, and 23-Year.  A strange thing happened.  The new 20-Year tasted note-for-note the same as last year's 23-Year!  Just to be sure we weren't hallucinating (after all we'd just had three stellar ryes and sampled a bunch of other little treats from Anthony's bar), we handed Anthony the two tasting glasses blind.  "Super close" he concurred.

20 Is the New 23!!!

So this is really something special.  This year's 20-year tastes remarkably like last year's 23 (which by all indications is still Stitzel Weller juice).  If you loved the woody and sophisticated 23 from recent years, you're going to go nuts for this year's 20.  It makes us very excited to try the rest of the 2013 line.  Will the 15-Year taste like last year's 20?  We certainly hope we'll get to find out.

It's a matter of taste for sure.  Historically some people love the big sweet richness of the 15-Year, some love the crisp woodiness of the 23, and others feel that the 20 is the sweet spot between the two.  It will be interesting to see how all the reviews come in this year.  But we're sure glad we got the first taste!  You can be sure that the 2013 Pappy Van Winkle 20-Year is a top class bourbon.  Those lucky enough to score a glass or a bottle are in for a serious treat.

Thanks again to Anthony for the pour!

Cheers/SB







Review: Pappy van Winkle 15 Year, 20 Year, and 23 Year - Beast Masters Volume 1. Part 2

September 11, 2013

Review: Pappy van Winkle 15 Year, 20 Year, and 23 Year - Beast Masters Volume 1. Part 2


Insult to Injury

A while back we posted the first part of our private tasting with ace bourbon collector Jonathan Colton.  It was an in-depth, drool-inducing play-by-play of A.H. Hirsch 16-Year, arguably the best bourbon in the history of the world.  

Well it's time for Part 2, and so we thought we'd add insult to injury.  What could Jonathan put on the table next to the best bourbon in the world?  Well of course, the best three bourbons in the world.  The entire line of Pappy Van Winkle.  Remember that sexy close up of the AH Hirsch airing out prior to our tasting from the first post?  The one that made you want to pawn your family heirlooms for whiskey money?  Well, let's zoom out a bit...


That's what we're talking about.  

Who's Your Pappy?

There have been so many great articles on Pappy that we won't try and give you the whole history or tell you why it's so elusive, impossible to find, and generally awesome.  However there are some pertinent facts you should know.

Stitzel-Weller

The Stitzel-Weller distillery has reached mythical status in the world of the bourbon aficionado.  The distillery was opened the day of the Kentucky Derby, 1935 and run by Julian "Pappy" Van Winkle Senior until his death in 1968 and then by his son Julian Van Winkle Jr until 1972.  The distillery then changed hands and was eventually closed in 1992 (note that 1992 is 21 years ago, that will become very important in future posts).

Stitzel-Weller made a number of brands like W.L. Weller, Old Fitzgerald, and Cabin Still.  SW became famous for their 'wheated' bourbon recipe.  By law bourbon has to be at least 51% corn.  Most producers use rye as the second ingredient.  Using a technique coined by William Larue Weller, an early bourbon pioneer, SW used wheat instead of rye in the mashbill.  The combination of the recipe, ingredients, and conditions at Stitzel-Weller created some unbelievable whiskey stock.  Today, bourbon freaks hunt far and wide for any bottles containing "SW juice".

Julian Van Winkle Junior and his son JVW III revived the family's Old Rip Van Winkle brand from before prohibition.  After Stitzel-Weller closed, Julian III bought up old stock and started releasing more matured, aged bourbon under the Pappy Van Winkle label.  In the early 2000's, realizing that the SW stock was coming to an end, Julian III contracted with Buffalo Trace to source future stock of Pappy.

So, to make a long story short, in recent years Pappy has mixed Buffalo Trace and Stitzel-Weller bourbon to make Pappy.  Not so for the bottles in Jon's collection.  These are all early 2000's Pappys, and so they are all 100% Stitzel-Weller-produced bourbon.  The Holy Grail so to speak.  Gear up, let's take it for a drive.

Tasting Notes




Pappy Van Winkle 15-Year

Nose:
Lots of dry sharp woodiness.  Sawdust and hint of tobacco.  Big back-end of vanilla, cocoa, nutmeg, leather and black pepper.

Body: Goes in dry and crisp and then opens up sweet and rich.  Immediately we're in heaven with this bottle, the wheat has a mellowness that counters the big sweetness and spice for an amazing balance.  It's got a good amount of spirit warmth that is welcome amid all the different flavors.

Finish: Medium-short finish leaves you with oak, tobacco, and vanilla.

Overall: Awesome, ballsy, rich and woody bourbon.  If this is the youngest we can't wait for the older brothers.




Pappy Van Winkle 20-Year

Nose:  Much sweeter on the nose.  Less wood, more raisins, plums and chocolate.

Body:  Ok, there was something happening when we had our first taste of A.H. Hirsch 16-Year that we thought we'd never experience again.  Just an airiness, an evaporative texture that makes the whiskey feel soft against the tongue.  The Pappy 20 is right there as well.  Like the liquid whispers against the palate floating a millimeter off the tongue.  Incredible.

Finish:  The most balanced finish ever.  Sweet, oak, leather, spice and spirit just melding together into fine cologne.

Overall:  The second best bourbon we've ever tasted.




Pappy Van Winkle 23-Year

Nose:  Jonathan said that when he opened this bottle a few years back, he was very disappointed.  He found it over-oaked, extremely woody - to a fault.  This isn't the first time we've heard this from people about Pappy 23.  We picked up the big wood right on the nose, amazingly dry cracking wood, like a pile of aged firewood.

Body:  Like many very old spirits, this bottle just takes time to open up.  Jon agreed.  After a few years in the bottle it's a brilliant spirit.  There's still the tiniest bit of bitterness from the extreme woodiness, but overall it's extremely refined old leather, oak, and dark spices.

Finish:  The longest finish of the pack, the smoke comes back layering nicely with the wood.

Overall:  One of a kind, big wheat and wood, for special occasions...

Sadly We Reached The End

All of these Pappy's were off the charts.  But the 20-Year was an obvious stand-out.  The texture and the balance were absolutely unique.  We could see craving the 15-Year for a big sweet drink after a rich meal.  The 23-Year would be a victory drink if you won a nobel prize or just made your first million - men's club-style refinement and intense dry, crisp, and woody powerhouse.  But the 20-Year is pure magic.  It takes the best of the 15 and 23 and then brings the whole experience to another level.

Thanks again to Jonathan for an unforgettable evening.  We've still got one more part to this series so stay tuned.  /SmokyBeast
Review: Rittenhouse 21 Year, 23 Year, and 25 Year Rye - Beast Masters Volume 2!!!

September 4, 2013

Review: Rittenhouse 21 Year, 23 Year, and 25 Year Rye - Beast Masters Volume 2!!!

Oh baby, it's on.  The Beast Master series is back, featuring a mildly INSANE series of whiskies from Anthony Colasacco of Pour Mt Kisco!  Our first Beast Masters episode set the bar pretty high, but Anthony seems primed to step up to the plate.

Pour

Anthony runs a first-class joint out in Mt. Kisco, NY.  It's about half an hour by car, maybe 50 minutes if you're slumming it on public transport (which is a better option if you can't find a sucker for designated driver).  Heading out there, we saw a quaint town, and then some ominous looking mini-mall-type establishments, and then finally a perfect house with a wide front porch and dim-lighting.  Fingers crossed, we entered.

Firstly, the people are awesome.  You'll feel welcomed right away.  And second (ok who are we kidding?!?) was the bar itself.  A whiskey collection out of our wildest dreams.

The objects of tonight's affection: a line-up of outrageous ryes.  Rittenhouse 21-Year, 23-Year, and 25-Year.  Try and find these.  Go ahead.  Then cry yourself to sleep.  Spend the rest of your life living vicariously through our review.  Or, alternately, go to Pour and have Anthony pour you some.

Does this picture have you making sort of a combination of a smile and a whimper?
Then you're one of us...

What Are They Pouring???

Ok so before we get to the review, we have to take a look around Pour.  Because, well...  How could we not?  It's like the Egyptian God of Booze Hounds.

First stop: 5-piece Van Winkle Series. Yeah.  Deal with it.

12-year "Lot B".  Rip van Winkle Family Reserve Rye.  Pappy van Winkle 15-year.  Pappy van Winkle 20-Year, Pappy van Winkle 23-Year.  

What was that?  There were a couple of bottles on the sides that we left out?   Yeah there were.  Hirsch 25-year Bourbon.  Hirsch 28-year Bourbon.  Yup.

Then there's the top shelf over the bar...

Black Maple Hill Small Batch,  Vintage Bourbon 17, High West 21-year Rye, Vintage Rye 23-year

Feel free to read the rest of this post from your mobile device aboard the Metro North to Mt Kisco.  Here's the schedule.

And here's the man himself eagerly pondering our vintage rye tasting.


Clearly Anthony had been saving these in the bunker long enough to have the above look on his face when we actually opened them.  And speaking of that secret bunker...  Yeah, there's shit like this in there!

From the top: A.H. Hirsch 16 Gold Foil, A.H. Hirsch 16 Blue Wax, A.H. Hirsch 20 Year Red Wax, and original Michter's 101 Proof Whiskey
Yup that's a whole line of original Michter's juice from Schaefferstown, PA.  We'd never even seen a Hirsch 20 Year in the flesh until that moment.  Sadly we couldn't convince Anthony to do a tasting of these!  Maybe one day.

Ok enough teasing, let's drink!

Tasting Notes

Rittenhouse 21-Year

Nose: Vanilla and chestnuts.  Brown sugar.
Body: Dry, crisp, sweet honey.
Finish: Short, nose warmth, dark chocolate.

So far so good.  The 21 is a big sweet bold rye with lots of dessert flavors.  Warm, sweet, and very very good.

Rittenhouse 23-Year

Nose: Way less vanilla, way more wood.  Less sweet and more spicy.
Body: Herbal and floral scents come off this one: mint & menthol, daisies & celery.
Finish: More heat, not less!  Celery coming through over thick oak and spice.

This one lacks the big bold sweetness of the 21.  It's a bit more complex, but so far the 21 is the favorite.

Rittenhouse 25-Year

Nose: Now we're into both the big vanilla and the big wood coming together into something altogether beautiful.  Sweet, spicy, and deep.
Body: Cherries, honey, caraway, mint, molasses, chocolate, wood & leather.  It keeps opening up and revealing more layers.
Finish: Surprisingly, it's the shortest finish of the bunch.  The warmth spreading from nose to throat.  It's got all the elements - sweet, spicy, smooth, woody.  Every time you take a sip you discover a new layer of flavor.

And the winner is...

From the first three sips, the 21-Year was the favorite.  It was the sweetest, most vanilla and chocolate flavored, had the biggest boldest taste, and really just hit the ground running.

Once we dutifully sipped these three glasses over the course of half an hour, the 25-Year started to morph into something otherworldly.  The sweetness and body from the 21-Year came out.  All the florals and herbs from the 23-Year started to mix in.  The result was really just mind-blowing.  Very sophisticated layers of wood and spice and sweet all coming together perfectly.  It was worth the wait and in the end, the clear favorite.  These are all stellar ryes, but we'd rank them 25, 21, 23 in order of preference.  Never mind that though, jump on the chance to try any of these if you get one.

Thanks to Anthony and Peter at Pour for a night to remember.  Stop by, it's definitely worth the trip!

Cheers/SB