Review: Balcones Brimstone - The Lone Star Beast

May 31, 2013

Review: Balcones Brimstone - The Lone Star Beast

Spoiler Alert:  Balcones Brimstone got a SmokyBeast "A".  Check out the full review below, pick up a bottle from our friends at Caskers (on sale for the next two weeks), and tune in next week when we'll be featuring an exclusive interview with Balcones founder and head distiller Chip Tate.  (If you're afraid you're going to forget, like us on Facebook and you'll get a link to the interview).  /sb

The Hunt

Ok we've been searching long and hard for a hand-crafted whiskey that we can get behind.  We love the idea of scrappy intrepid pioneers taking on the mighty corporate distilleries.  Imagine die-hard whiskey nerds obsessing for years over the perfect combination of corn and wheat, the exact angle of that hand-hammered still, the perfect cut, and the most secret alchemist-like art of producing a warm and mature product without sitting on their barrels for a decade.  Alas our search to date has been uphill.  There are some that taste too weak.  There are some that taste too young and harsh.  There are some that are so expensive that they put themselves into impossible contests with sixteen or twenty-year aged glories from the old country.  There are some that flat-out lie and just buy Kentucky bourbon claiming to have distilled it themselves.  (links have been left out to protect the not-so-innocent)

Blue Ribbon

We're pretty thrilled to announce that we have found not only a hand-crafted original, but a genuine smoky beast of the highest calibre.  It comes at very fair price, with more than its share of beauty, grace, and balls.  In our humble opinion, it's surely destined to become a long-term whiskey powerhouse.  Enter Balcones Distilling, lead by Chip Tate, and the smokiest of Chip's creations: Balcones Brimstone.


Tasting Notes

Nose:  Layers of sweet sugar and caramel.  And that unique smoke.  It's like taking the wood out of the body of a heavily oaked malt and adding it to the nose of a bourbon.  Campfire embers.  Sweet buttered corn, watermelon (sounds crazy, but see if you can smell it), slight oiled leather, and then the spice - habanero chilli peppers, bay leaves, slow-cooked meaty chili.  Awesome balanced nose of smoke, sweet, and rich spice.

Body:  Ok this is going to sound weird, but it tastes like really well-made french toast.  Like the kind made with fresh country eggs, thick-cut bread, lots of sweet butter, and real maple syrup.  The outside of the bread is brown and crunchy from the butter and eggs and the center soaks up the sweet molasses of the syrup.

Finish:  Long and lovely finish of pipe smoke, more oak and leather, some smoldering wet grass.  The smoke is dominant, but as we've said before: it's not just the smoke, it's the balance of smoke, richness, and smoothness.  What Brimstone does so well is that it balances the smoke with the sweetness and the full-bodied corn and spice so that you can fully taste the spirit, you get that awesome warm feeling across your chest, but there's no medicinal alcohol burn.  This finish goes well with being outside under the stars.  At 53%, we prefer to drink Brimstone with only tiny dribble of water - four or five drops from the tips of the fingers or an eye dropper into a full pour of whiskey.  The high proof makes the finish last a lifetime and we relish savoring the smoky sweet remnants.

Review

Brimstone is just what we were looking for.  It's delicious, it's unique, and it's just the kind of new experience that we look for in a hand-crafted whiskey.  At near cask strength it's incredibly drinkable with only a tiny bit of water, which is nothing short of a miracle for a young whiskey.  It's honestly the first smoky American whiskey that we've fallen for the way we do for Islay malts.  We love bourbon, but to find an American whiskey that embraces smoke like this is tremendous.  If this is what Texas whiskey is all about, sign us up!  Make no mistake, this is a beast of the smokiest variety.  It's not for the faint of heart.  But if you are a smoke lover, you simply must try it.  $55 for a handmade product of this quality?  It's a straight "A".  Bravo Chip, you've got a hell of a beautiful beast on your hands here.

Click here to continue reading Balcones - The Birth of a Beast Part 2...


/SmokyBeast


Review: Auchentoshan Three Wood - What Happens When You Buy Your Wife Booze For Your Anniversary?

May 23, 2013

Review: Auchentoshan Three Wood - What Happens When You Buy Your Wife Booze For Your Anniversary?

Hapless Romantic

Lord knows where the official list of traditional anniversary gifts came from, but I've had fun following them.  Well, until this year...

Year 1: Paper - Plane tickets to Turkey for an amazing vacation.  
Year 2: Cotton - Comfy PJs from Lands End.  
Year 3: Leather - Leopard print Doc Marten's boots (huge hit!).
Year 4: Silk - Lingerie.
Year 5: Wood -

Seriously?  Wood?  Like a very romantic... salad spoon?  clogs?  animal carving?  Not exactly wifey's style.  

But I'd taken it this far, so I was determined.  There I was tromping around downtown Manhattan walking into random stores and asking "Do you have anything made of wood?"  I shook my head at a lot of carving boards and lawn gnomes.  I finally found a rather cheap looking bracelet at a boutique in SoHo made of wood beads.  "Well I'd hoped for something nicer, but this will have to do," I thought.  I turned it over to look at the price.  It was eight hundred dollars.  

Defeated, dejected, I got on the subway and headed home.  Well that was the end of that tradition, but at least I could get a nice bottle of champagne and flowers.  I stopped into Beacon Wines (the best liquor store on the Upper West Side) and took a minute to browse the whiskey section before heading to the bubbly.  

There it was!  Winking at me from the Single Malt Scotch shelf, in big beautiful block text:  "AUCHENTOSHAN THREE WOOD".  Not just one wood, but three!  And three classy woods at that: American bourbon oak, Spanish Oloroso Sherry, and Pedro Ximenez casks.  What could possibly be more appropriate for celebrating our five years of marital bliss?  

(Let me just pause here for the caveat that I'm not necessarily recommending hard alcohol as your 'go-to' anniversary gift.  My wifey happens to be my co-blogger and a Grade-A scotch aficionado, so I had a feeling she'd appreciate it.  I was right.)




Tosh

Auchentoshan, known to us insiders as "Tosh" or "The Tosh" is one of the few remaining lowland distilleries near Glasgow.  Most commonly available are their 18-Year, the Three Wood, and the 12-Year, the 21-Year is more difficult to track down.  Tosh's claim to fame is their triple distillation process, inserting a third "intermediate" still into the process with the goal of producing greater purity in the distillate.  Check out this actually awesome explanation of triple distillation from their site.  It's very informative.  People who love Tosh, LOVE TOSH!  Like this guy.  Cheers Toshan Man, go for yours!  Bottom line: it's sort of a phenomenon, and it's a whisky drinkers whisky - slightly off-the-beaten-path when it comes to the standard bottles you'll find in a bar or liquor store.  Just how we like it.  So how's it taste?

Wifey's Tasting Notes

Nose:  Apples and cinnamon, very rich apple pie desert. And of course the wood.

Body:  Still get a fruity flavor with the taste, but more pear than apple.  Faint hint of smoke.

Finish:  If it’s possible for something to have a light but rich finish, it does.  Light on the tongue, but still the rich notes you get in the nose. 

Gift rating:  Best anniversary gift ever!  (I mean the Dr. Marten's were pretty great, but I can't wear them in the summer, and I can't share them with my hubby!).  Also I'm very glad that I didn't get a wood chair or a garden gnome.  Well actually a garden gnome would have been pretty cool in Manhattan...

Hubby's Tasting Notes

Nose:  Ok this is not a peated scotch, which is why I've never been that curious before.  But the nose is incredible.  What it lacks in smoke, it fully makes up for in wood and leather.  It's an old oak desk with a well-oiled leather ledger.  Letting it sit for a few minutes I'm discovering dark fruits: prunes, raisins, and plums.  Finally there is sweet molasses and faint herbals - fresh thyme.  

Body:  There are few non-peated whiskies that really catch my attention.  This stuff is just so uber-pure and clean, it's staggering.  You can really taste the spirit, it's not hiding, but there's absolutely no burn, and it's wrapped in layer after layer of delicious wood flavor.  The feeling of leather is intense.  There is lemon, not tangy, but sweet like those tins of hard candy grandma used to keep on her coffee table.  And a nice honeyed chamomile to wrap it all together.

Finish:  The finish floats a millimeter off the top of your tongue.  Medium long and extremely pleasant. Maybe my only criticism is that this could have a few more points of alcohol to really kick up the finish.  But it's lovely as it is.  There's a little more citrus, oranges and tangerines exploding on top of the wood.  What a pleasant surprise this bottle is!

The Review

A perfect way to celebrate our first half a decade!  The Three Wood gets a SmokyBeast "A-".  What an excellent gift this bottle is, something new and different that will delight both scotch veterans and newbies alike.  It's very unique and you can just taste the quality that goes into this product.  At under $70, this is a winner.  There are some very negative reviews of this bottle out there.  We'll happily disagree.

Help for Next Year?

Talk about turning failure into triumph.  Thanks Tosh!  Now about next year...

Year 6: Iron - Any suggestions???



/SmokyBeast
SmokyBeast Scoop: Oban Distiller's Edition on Sale at Caskers!

May 20, 2013

SmokyBeast Scoop: Oban Distiller's Edition on Sale at Caskers!




Today's scoop: Oban Distiller's Edition at Casker's in limited supply for $88.99.  This bottle has sold out around New York and online at over $100.  Cheers to our friends at Casker's for hooking it up!



Tasting Notes
Nose: A good balance of smoke and spice. Rosemary, black pepper, cinnamon sticks and cloves. Then the fruit comes through with raisins, cherries, and a hint of mellon.

Body: Clear and crisp on the tongue, not oily or thick, it starts as a nice warm spiced apple cider. Very smooth, the lightness continues adding warmth without burn.  There's enough smoke to cut through the alcohol and deliver a complex flavor that's both unique and extremely drinkable.

Finish: The finish is probably the most interesting aspect of this malt. It has a lingering smokiness that is quite enjoyable. But as the smoke drifts off the palate, the fruit and spice remain. There are some distinctly floral tastes coming through similar to rose water. Just as described it's like a special little cove between the peat bogs of the islands and the spice and fruit of the highlands. The smoke drifts up into your nose and through your sinuses while your mouth dwells on fruits and spices.


Good hunting!  /smokybeast
Cece's Single Malt Sweet Tooth

May 16, 2013

Cece's Single Malt Sweet Tooth

Glenmorangie Lasanta, Scapa 14-Year

Cece's Sweet Tooth for Single Malts

This week we were fortunate enough to sit down for a special tasting with Cece Smith-MacKenzie of Walker's in TriBeCa.  Cece has been a waitress at Walker's for 17 years, always with a smile and a lovely dram to brighten your day.  While not a smoke head like your trusty authors, Cece is something of an expert when it comes to rich, honeyed, Highland malts.  



"I first discovered whisky, like most young kids, when I stole some from my grandfather’s liquor cabinet. I did not enjoy my first encounters with Scotch. He had a taste for really smoky whisky. Then in my twenties there were many hapless meetings with blended whisky. Which, I barely survived, or at least that is how it felt.

It wasn’t until 16 years ago, Leonard, who is still a bartender at Walker’s, talked me into trying Balvenie 12. My love affair with single malt had officially begun. It is still one of my favorites today.

I tend to like Highland Whisky the best, but I love The Orkney Isles. Scapa is now one of my all time favorites and I also love Highland Park, both from Orkney. Glenmorangie is my favorite Highland and they have so many to choose from. Right now I am very partial to the Lasanta. I like Single Malts that are complex, with a peaty earthy flavour and very little to no smoke, with a vanilla, plum finish and a hint of spice. I don’t add ice. I do however add a splash of water to open the flavour. Old school. My grandfather would be proud!"

A Gem of a Pub

While the tourists are across the street gawking at the Ghostbuster's firehouse, locals flock to Walker's for the best happy hour in TriBeCa.  Walker's is one of our all-time favorite pubs. They sport a great, well-poured draught beer list (amongst our favorites are: Lagunitas IPA, Southampton White, Bluepoint, & Palm), a hand-picked selection of malts and whiskies, and very solid pub food at prices that won't make you weep like most TriBeCa restaurants these days.

Most importantly the staff is awesome and deeply authentic.  Walker's could be the Cheers of New York, if Cheers was a real place and not the most awful tourist trap in Boston. 



Contestant #1: Scapa 14-Year

From the Orkney Islands, north of the northern Scottish Highlands, comes Scapa.  Self-described as "sweet and velvety with flavours of sweet clementine and heather honey, a tang of ginger, and sweet baked apples," Scapa is a sweet treat that's off-the-beaten-path and was a very pleasant surprise.

SmokyBeast's notes:  "On the nose: A bouquet of flowers and fruits - dandelions, spring meadow, apples, and dew.  The body opens up with sweeter fruits: heavy apricot, peaches, white wine.  The finish is lightning fast, just a pop of fruit with absolutely no burn."

Cece's notes:  "On the nose: Salty, Floral, Oak, Ocean Brine.  Body: A hint of spice, vanilla, caramel, chocolate.  Finish: Very short, vanilla."

Scapa was delightful.  We could see this as a perfect after-lunch scotch, or to be paired with salads, fish, or fruit.


Contestant #2: Glenmorangie Lasanta


The Oloroso Sherry barrel version of the 12-Year Glenmorangie is noted as "Smooth chocolate covered raisins, honeycomb, and caramel toffee.  Deliciously sweet sherry flavoured sultanas, orange segments, walnuts, & butterscotch."

Cece's notes: "Nose: Spice, vanilla, caramel, banana fruitiness.  Body: sweet & spicy with peat coming through followed by a long finish of peat and spice.

SmokyBeast's Notes: "Nose: overripe bananas, caramel, Nutella.  There's a little funk on the nose here, maybe those bananas have gone a bit brown.  It opens up with herb garden and a hint of smoke.  Body: Sweet start, then little hints of lemongrass and thyme.  Herby and medicinal behind the sweetness.  Finish: Much longer finish when compared with the Scapa.  The finish is probably its best feature, the smoke is apparent along with a heavy dose of leather (saddle oil) and fresh oak.

Conclusions

While we remain dedicated to the beastly smoky delights, Cece introduced a new favorite.  The Scapa is truly unique.  It leaves you craving another pour, the stone fruits and honey still rolling on your tongue.  Think about a romantic evening with Scapa and chocolate-covered strawberries.  Think about a delicious malt that wouldn't ruin your palate for a light summer meal.

Thanks to everyone at Walker's for a great time.  Stop by next time you're in TriBeCa around happy hour (it's on the corner of N. Moore & Varick) and ask for Cece!

Cheers/SmokyBeast




Review: Laphroaig Quarter Cask - Can The Mighty Dwarf Prevail?

May 9, 2013

Review: Laphroaig Quarter Cask - Can The Mighty Dwarf Prevail?

Surface Area

Here's a secret:  If you're in a rush to cook pasta, boil your water in a wide and short saucepan.  Spreading the water out over a wider pan makes it boil much more quickly.  You'll be cooking those raviolis in half the time.  It's all about surface area.  Think about it...  In a standard size pot, a lot of the water is very far from the edges.  The heat has to pass through several inches of water to heat the cold water in the middle of the pot.  In the wide and short pan, none of the water is farther than an inch or two from the hot surface of the pot.  Ok, we're sure you understand all about surface area.  You went to third grade.  Sorry about that.  But we bet you didn't really think about whiskey this way.  

The Mighty Dwarf Cask

When it comes to aging whisky, distillers have been trying the same principles.  The theory is that the aging process takes place when the whisky interacts with the oak of the barrel.  So that would logically mean: higher ratio of wood to whisky = faster aging.  Thus the concept of the quarter cask is born.  Smaller barrels (casks) means more wood touching the whisky.  More surface area.  Boil that water quicker so that we can eat our ravioli (or in this case single malt scotch) sooner!

Laphroaig Quarter Cask

Look closely at the label below and you'll see the standard size Laphroaig barrel next to the quarter cask.  Can this mighty dwarf really speed up the aging process and give us a lovely, smooth, and mature whisky without having to wait 14 years?





NAS

This is another No Age Statement bottle, so it's tough to really judge the quarter cask approach in a vacuum.  There are a lot of rumblings about it being some combination of 7-year quarter cask barrels mixed with some older traditional barrels.  Our friends at Master of Malt (who know a thing or two) say it's a traditional 5-year aging that's finished for 7 months in the quarter casks.  No way to know for sure.  Clearly it's young, or putting an age statement on the bottle would increase the value.  The only detail is "Double Cask Matured at 48%".  Ok, not helpful, but let's see what happens.

Tasting Notes:

Appearance:  Definitely darker than the standard 10-year.  Still not quite a pleasant color, but we're trying to remain impartial based on looks alone.

Nose:  Ok now we're listening.  This is the epitome of salt-water ocean air.  You can just smell the breeze coming in across the whitecaps.  You can even smell the rocks.  Very nice aroma comparable to some of our favorite Islays.

Body:  Here we are again with Laphroaig's throat.  Unclear wether it's the lack of age, the barreling process, or the original flavor, but it's not where we want it to be.  There is more wood flavor than the standard 10 year bottle, which is sort of nice, but the mellowness hasn't taken hold.  It's a harsh and fiery dram that's tough to swallow.

Finish:  It's extremely throaty on the finish.  Uncomfortably so.  You need to add water.  When you do it mellows out slightly, but it's tough to find a balance between smooth and watery.

The Review:

So did Laphoaig's little scientific hypothesis prove to be true?  In a word: No.  The quarter cask aging did increase the wood flavor, but it didn't age the whisky any faster.  Because the real key to aging is... age.  It's not just absorbing the character of the wood.  When whisky ages, the fire of the alcohol fades and the fruit, smoke, and spice flavors of the malt come through.  At around $60, you'd be crazy not to spend an extra ten bucks and go for Lagavulin, Ardbeg, or Bowmore.   Sadly the mighty dwarf from Laphroaig gets a SmokyBeast "C".

/sb


Review: Michter's 1753 10-Year Bourbon - The Most Shocking and Scandalous SmokyBeast Post Ever!!

May 2, 2013

Review: Michter's 1753 10-Year Bourbon - The Most Shocking and Scandalous SmokyBeast Post Ever!!


"What's Your Favorite Bourbon?"

It starts out innocently enough.  Two sets of parents on a playdate.  Dad finds out you write a whiskey blog, furrows his brow, and in the spirit of conversation poses a question.  "So...  What's your favorite bourbon?"

This is the type of question at which all whiskey writers cringe.  There are so many great bourbons out there.  Dare I pick one?  Will the serious aficionados of the world laugh me out of the room for picking something unworthy?  

Then there are the qualifiers: Are we talking best value for the money?  Best taste overall?  Should this be a whiskey for special occasions or an everyday bottle?  Or some hidden gem that will prove my upper echelon whiskey insider-osity?  Should I be conducting weeks of blind tastings to refine my answer based on technical categories and palate profiles? 

What Do You Crave?

No.  Forget all that.  No one cares.  When people ask me this question it's because they know I sample a lot of different whiskeys and they want to know what I crave.  

I'm reflecting on that moment at my office.  It's ten minutes to five and while my corporeal form remains in front of the computer, my spirit is already flying home to loftier pursuits.  I know that I'll get to spend an hour or two with my toddler.  We'll probably dance a little bit (she heard Mumford & Sons on Pandora recently and went nuts for it).  She'll have her favorite dinner: homemade mac & cheese with peas.  And I know that she'll go to sleep around 7:30 and I'll be headed for a drink.

It's getting warm out which means that after my typical winter hibernation in a cave of single malt scotch, I'm going to have a bourbon.  As I'm on my way home today, I'm not thinking about which bottle in my bar has the highest sticker price.  It's money spent.  I'm not thinking about which won the most awards this year or which is the most elusive and difficult to find.  I couldn't care less.  

The fact is that the decision has already been made.  My mind has already skipped past the Pappy and the Hirsch, the Craigs and the Taylors, the Buffalos and the Black Maple Hills.  In my mind I'm already pouring a glass of my favorite bourbon... drum-roll please... Michter's 10-Year.



My Favorite Bourbon

I crave it.  I can picture its lovely dark color swirling in my best crystal tumbler.  To be honest, my mouth is watering a little bit right now just thinking about it. I can taste the brown sugar, the vanilla, the leather and wood, the cocoa.  There's just something about it that has all other bourbon beat.

A Dose of Reality

Ok we know it's another NDP (non-distiller producer) brand.  It's probably made at Heaven Hill.  It's just got a different label on it.  Yada yada yada.  You know what?  I don't care.  It tastes great.  Maybe it's the recipe, or the special little spot in the warehouse where it earns its stripes.  It doesn't matter.  You can't second guess bourbon.  You just sip it and see where it takes you.  There's some magic going on there.

Tasting Notes

Appearance:  Look at it.  Soak in the dark caramel color.  Live it.  Love it.  And remember that bourbon by law can contain no additives or artificial coloring.  That's the years of charred oak, the brutal Kentucky summers and those cool southern nights you're looking at.

Nose:  Starbucks Frappuccino with extra caramel and whipped cream.  Sweet toffee, mocha, vanilla.  A freshly opened box of raisins.  Then the deep oak, char, tobacco, and leather.  There's something else, a little hint of pink rock salt.  FInally a healthy dose of candied orange rind.

Body:  A lot of spices hitting at once.  Nutmeg, fennel seed, cinnamon, little bursts of lemon essence and grapefruit.  Add a little water and..  just kidding, you'd have to be nuts to add water to this.  It's perfect at 94 proof.  The molasses and vanilla are most intense here filling the mouth with sweet corn and brown butter.

Finish:  A very fast finish.  What does this mean exactly?  Well with some whiskey the finish moves slowly, staying hot for a few seconds and then turning gradually into smoke or sweetness.  Here the pleasant bourbon burn is gone as soon as you open your lips.  There's little sweetness on the aftertaste, it's mostly smoke and spice.  Rosemary comes out and hot pepper, campfire and cigar tobacco.

Review

If you can find Michter's 10-Year Bourbon in a liquor store in NYC, it's probably around $95.  We see it online, though not from any of our standard reputable sources, for as low as $75, but that's probably due to usurious shipping rates.  The regular Michter's is great too and can be found easily.  Is the Ten Year worth a hundred bucks?  I don't know.  Yes.  If Pappy 23 is worth $250, then triple yes.  With Blanton's and Four Roses Single Barrel in the $40-$50 range, then maybe not.  It's a crazy jumbled up mixed up world of bourbon out there.  This is still this hubby's favorite.

Tell me I'm crazy, leave a note and let us know what you think of this scandalous beast.

Good drinking.  /sb